At Kiang Hai—Ferocious dog—Chinese pack-saddles and mules—Routes from China—Articles of merchandise—Richness of Kiang Hsen plain—Visit the Chow Hona—Man killed by wild elephant—Chiefs wish for railway—Would help by granting wood for bridges and sleepers—Kamooks for labourers—Chinese Shans and Chinese would flock in for hire—Easiest route for loop-line to Zimmé—Trees laden with women and children—Dr M‘Gilvary purchases an elephant—Receives present from Chow Hona—Sunday service—Unselfishness of Dr M‘Gilvary—Lapoon immigrants—Death-rate of immigrants—Boxing—A woman in chains—Leave Kiang Hai—Young elephants a nuisance—A yellow-turbaned monk—Fireworks—Whistling rockets—Gigantic rockets at funerals—A lovely Lolo-Lawa woman—Spring blossoms—Cross the water-parting between the Meh Low and the Meh Ing—Hot springs—Houses erected for us—Fisheries—Arrive at Muang Hpan—Formation of a settlement—Emigrants to Kiang Hsen in 1887—Prosperity of country—Mr Archer’s opinion—The father of the state—Like a Highlander—Deserted cities—An ancient Christian—Viang Poo Ken—Rapid decay of buildings in a moist climate—Ants at work—Damming streams for fisheries—Injury to drainage—The Meh Ing a sluggish stream—A hare—Oppressive atmosphere—Searching for water—Boiling mud to make tea—A distressing march—City of Chawm Taung—A celebrated temple—Buddhist legend—A golden image sixty feet high—Legend of Penyow—A Buddh forty-five feet high—Gaudama existing formerly as Indra—A Shan Rachel—Reach Penyow, 211 CHAPTER XX. Settled by Lakon—Population—Smallpox—Tutelary spirits—Ancient cities—Trade-routes and cost of transport—The centre of Ping States—A Lakon prince—Views about railway—Smallpox raging—Callousness of natives—Dr Cushing infected—Deserted cities—Famous for pottery—Gambling currency—Gambling games in Siam—Fighting crickets, fish, and cocks—Cock-crowing in Indo-China—Variation in times of new year—Gambling monopoly in Siam—Proclamation of the king—Gambling chief cause of slavery—Parents selling children into slavery—Slavery not abolished—Proclamation issued to delude foreigners—Position of people daily growing worse—A money-lender buying injustice from princes and nobles—Encouraging gambling—Gambling-house jails—State of Siamese Government monopolies—Effect of _corvée_ labour—Burdensome taxation—No justice—General demoralisation—Shan States better governed, 230 CHAPTER XXI.