A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
After continuing northwards along the river-bank for two miles we turned
eastward, crossing the low land that lies between the Salween and the
high laterite ground which separates it from the basin of the Hlineboay
river. The highest point passed by the cart-road between Shoaygoon and
Hlineboay is less than a hundred feet above the former place. The great
flood of 1877 rose two feet six inches above the bank of the Salween at
Shoaygoon, or to a level twenty feet above the ground in the interior;
but owing to the breadth of the valley and the slope of the country, the
flood-water passed off in a stream a mile in breadth and about ten feet
deep.
Leaving the valley, we proceeded over laterite ground, amongst small
trees and scrub-jungle. Before reaching the Hlineboay river we had been
pretty nearly jolted to death by our abominable driver, the worst and
most apathetic of his kind I have ever suffered from. The carts, as is
usual in Burmah, were springless, and ordinary jolts might be expected;
but this creature drove us against trees and over tree-roots a tyro
might have avoided. I was particularly annoyed, as Dr Cushing was only
just recovering from an attack of liver complaint. It was no use
expostulating (though expostulate we did), for there only came bang,
bang, bang over another tree-root. We had to laugh, the man seemed so
utterly irreclaimable. Loogalay, my half-breed Burmese Mohammedan, who
was walking by the cart, assured us that it was no use talking to the
man,—“He was _yainday_ (a country lout); born a bullock, and would die a
buffalo”—that is, he was born a bumpkin and would die a blockhead.
On passing near the village of Quanta, which is situated about eleven
miles from Shoaygoon, Dr Cushing called to me to hold my nose,—the
Karens, to propitiate the _nats_ (demons, gnomes, and fairies) of the
vicinity, had sacrificed a dog to them, and the air for a hundred yards
was reeking with the stench from the crucified remains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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