A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Moung Tsan Yan, the Myook, an old acquaintance of mine, came to see us
on our arrival, and told me that he had secured fourteen elephants, six
for our party and eight for that of Mr Bryce, the head manager of the
Bombay Trading Company, who had asked me to join parties with him, so
that we might travel together as far as Zimmé. Dacoits might be lurking
on the frontier: the more Europeans there were together, the less liable
should we be to attack. I accordingly halted until the 23d, when,
hearing that he was delayed, I determined to start, making short
journeys in order to enable his party to overtake us.
Dr Cushing kindly took over the commissariat from me, and we set to work
to sort and rearrange the baggage. Previous to leaving Maulmain I had
purchased forty _pahs_, or baskets made of pliable wicker-work, each
being about twenty inches long, fifteen inches broad, and ten inches
deep, which would fit easily into the howdah of an elephant. These,
after sorting, we labelled and numbered, entering the contents of each
in my note-book.
Method in packing saves a great deal of trouble and time when on a
journey. I never met a more methodical man than Dr Cushing. His
arrangements were admirable. Everything was kept in its place. Each
elephant load was stacked separately throughout the journey. Each driver
had charge of his own load, and was held responsible for it.
Stores for several weeks’ supply were packed separately, two _pahs_
together containing what was likely to be required each separate week;
and no other _pahs_, except those in charge of the cook, were allowed to
be opened without our consent. The cooking utensils, crockery, a dozen
of brandy for medicinal purposes, two dozen of whisky, and some of the
medicines, were packed in straw in small wooden cases. These, together
with the _pahs_, two waterproof bags, and a tin box for clothes and
money, my office-box, rugs, bedding, chairs, and camp-bedstead, and our
two selves, formed the load of the six elephants which were to convey us
and our belongings to Maing Loongyee, where fresh steeds had to be
procured.
The medicines, purchased by me chiefly in England, were the usual ones
carried in Indo-China. They consisted of quinine, Warburg’s tincture and
arsenic for fever, ipecacuanha, Dover’s powder and laudanum for
dysentery, Eno’s fruit-salt, Cockle’s pills and chlorodyne for lesser
ailments; pain-killer for dispelling the agony of bites from noxious
insects such as the huge dairy-keeping red ants that milk syrup from
plant-lice, centipedes and scorpions; Goa powder for ringworm, the most
general and contagious plague in the far East; and vaseline and
Holloway’s ointment for abrasions of the skin and ordinary casualties so
frequent on a journey. Dr Cushing was a doctor of souls: he knew, and
would know, nothing of physic; he abhorred it. His wife had been the
general practitioner on his former journeys. There was no help for it; I
must be the physician as well as the leader of the party.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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