A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States — John Shaqi
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
We erected our shelter for the night about a hundred yards from the
station, in a grove of _thyt-si_ trees, each measuring from 30 to 40
feet in circumference five feet from the ground. A large party of Shans
from Lapoon encamped near us, and came over in the evening for a chat
with our men. Camp-fires were dotted around us in all directions. Each
elephant had, besides the mahout, an attendant to look after its wants,
lop branches off banian and other trees for its food, shackle its
fore-feet when we halted, and aid in its morning, noonday, and evening
bath.
Each couple of men built a fire for themselves, and kept it alight
during the night, partly for warmth and partly to scare wild beasts that
might be wandering around. Kouknyin, the glutinous rice eaten by the
Karens, is steamed, and not boiled. An earthen pot, or _chatty_, is
placed upon three stones or clods of earth, which serve as a tripod; on
the top of the pot is placed the basket containing the rice, and the
junction is made air-tight with a wet cotton rag. A fire is then lighted
under the pot, and the steam from the water in the pot rises into the
rice and cooks it. Whilst hot the rice is stuffed into joints of green
bamboos about a foot in length, and eaten when required. Joints of green
bamboos likewise serve them for kettles: placed slanting over a fire,
the water soon boils. The elephants feeding in the neighbourhood could
be heard crashing through the bushes, rending off branches that suited
their fancy. These animals were our sentinels, and would trumpet if a
tiger came roving in their neighbourhood.
It would have been pleasant to sit in the open air and watch the stars
as they twinkled through the trees, if it had not been for the heavy
dew which commenced to fall soon after sundown. Loogalay’s
mosquito-curtains, made of stout cotton cloth, were dripping wet the
next morning, and he came with a long face and wrung them out before
us. Portow merely jeered at him, and asked why he had not erected a
leaf-shelter, as the other men had done. It is worse than useless
complaining of the effects of one’s folly in a company of wits.
Next morning, the 26th of January, we ordered two of the elephants to be
got ready to take us on an excursion down the Yembine valley, the
farther end of which I had visited on a tour up the Salween. This would
give me a chance of learning to survey from the top of an elephant. At
first thoughts one would deem such a feat to be impossible; the pitching
and rolling of the huge beast, which goes along like a Dutch lugger in a
chopping sea, would prevent the compass being brought to rest, and most
likely jam it into one’s eye. Yet, by giving way to the swaying
movements of the brute, I managed to get as perfect results as when
surveying on foot. From thenceforth, during my land journeys, I surveyed
from the back of an elephant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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