A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States — John Shaqi
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan StatesHallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
History
A thousand miles on an elephant in the Shan States
Hallett, Holt S. (Holt Samuel)
Laos -- Description and travel; Thailand -- Description and travel
Close to the northern foot of the pass we came to the Tee-tee-ko stream,
flowing through a pretty and pleasantly wooded valley, along which we
proceeded. Turning up a northern affluent, when the Tee-tee-ko turned to
the east on its way to the river, we halted for the night under some
noble Kanyin trees. These trees, from which a brown resin and superior
wood-oil is procured, have stems, often 25 feet in circumference, rising
straight as a dart 120 feet from the ground to the first branch. The
dense foliage completely shuts out the rays of the sun, thus affording a
splendid shade for a mid-day halt. You do not realise their enormous
size until from a distance you notice how dwarfed people camping under
them appear. An elephant by their side looks like a pig under an
ordinary tree.
The next morning, at a distance of two miles from the pass, we crossed
the Meh Pau, a stream 60 feet wide and 7 feet deep, which, flowing from
our right, enters the Thoungyeen some distance below the Siamese
guard-house and below our point of crossing. We then clambered up a
circular knoll rising 700 feet above the plateau, and had a fine view of
the Pau-kee-lay Toung—one of the precipitous limestone masses lying
three-quarters of a mile to the east. Descending from the knoll, which
is ascended by the track to save half a mile of extra distance, we
breakfasted on the bank of the Koo Saik Choung, just above its rapid
descent between two great limestone precipices to the river.
At the junction of one of the many roads which diverged to Karen
villages and the Thoungyeen from our track after leaving the pass, we
noticed the death-offering of some Sgau Karens belonging to a
neighbouring village. The offering was a propitiatory one to the spirit
of the deceased, and proffered in order to induce it not to return and
haunt the village. A silver coin had been placed in the ground beneath a
rudely carved figure, on the top of which narrow strips of red and white
cloth were hung; around the figure was a tiny fence, roofed in with a
small bamboo platform. Miniature jackets and trousers were suspended
from small poles at the sides of the fence. Food, which had been placed
on the platform, was no longer there—the thieving birds having most
likely deprived the poor ghost of it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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