Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
But the Egyptian, Arab and Turkish merchants, whether mingling in the
general tide or sitting on their counters, are the most picturesque
personages in all this busy scene. They wear ample turbans, for the most
part white; long vests of striped Syrian silk reaching to the feet; and
an outer robe of braided cloth or cashmere. The vest is confined round
the waist by a rich sash; and the outer robe, or _gibbeh_, is generally
of some beautiful degraded color, such as maize, mulberry, olive, peach,
sea-green, salmon-pink, sienna-brown, and the like. That these stately
beings should vulgarly buy and sell, instead of reposing all their lives
on luxurious divans and being waited upon by beautiful Circassians,
seems altogether contrary to the eternal fitness of things. Here, for
instance, is a grand vizier in a gorgeous white and amber satin vest,
who condescends to retail pipe-bowls--dull red clay pipe-bowls of all
sizes and prices. He sells nothing else, and has not only a pile of them
on the counter, but a binful at the back of his shop. They are made at
Siout, in Upper Egypt, and may be bought at the Algerine shops in London
almost as cheaply as in Cairo. Another majestic pasha deals in brass and
copper vessels, drinking-cups, basins, ewers, trays, incense-burners,
chafing-dishes, and the like; some of which are exquisitely engraved
with arabesque patterns or sentences from the poets. A third sells silks
from the looms of Lebanon and gold and silver tissues from Damascus.
Others, again, sell old arms, old porcelian, old embroideries,
second-hand prayer-carpets, and quaint little stools and cabinets of
ebony inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Here, too, the tobacco merchant sits
behind a huge cake of latakia as big as his own body; and the sponge
merchant smokes his long chibouk in a bower of sponges.
Most amusing of all, however, are those bazaars in which each trade
occupies its separate quarter. You pass through an old stone gateway or
down a narrow turning, and find yourself amid a colony of saddlers,
stitching, hammering, punching, riveting. You walk up one alley and down
another, between shop fronts hung round with tasseled head-gear and
hump-backed saddles of all qualities and colors. Here are ladies’
saddles, military saddles, donkey saddles, and saddles for great
officers of state; saddles covered with red leather, with crimson and
violet velvet, with maroon, and gray, and purple cloth; saddles
embroidered with gold and silver, studded with brass-headed nails, or
trimmed with braid.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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