Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
More impressive by far than the weightiest array of figures or the most
striking comparisons, was the shadow cast by the great pyramid as the
sun went down. That mighty shadow, sharp and distinct, stretched across
the stony platform of the desert and over full three quarters of a mile
of the green plain below. It divided the sunlight where it fell, just as
its great original divided the sunlight in the upper air; and it
darkened the space it covered, like an eclipse. It was not without a
thrill of something approaching to awe that one remembered how this
self-same shadow had gone on registering not only the height of the most
stupendous gnomon ever set up by human hands, but the slow passage day
by day of more than sixty centuries of the world’s history.
It was still lengthening over the landscape as we went down the long
sand-slope and regained the carriage. Some six or eight Arabs in
fluttering white garments ran on ahead to bid us a last good-by. That we
should have driven over from Cairo only to sit quietly down and look at
the great pyramid had filled them with unfeigned astonishment. With such
energy and dispatch as the modern traveler uses, we might have been to
the top and seen the temple of the Sphinx and done two or three of the
principal tombs in the time.
“You come again!” said they. “Good Arab show you everything. You see
nothing this time!”
So, promising to return ere long, we drove away; well content,
nevertheless, with the way in which our time had been spent.
The pyramid Bedouins have been plentifully abused by travelers and
guide-books, but we found no reason to complain of them now or
afterward. They neither crowded round us, nor followed us, nor
importuned us in any way. They are naturally vivacious and very
talkative; yet the gentle fellows were dumb as mutes when they found we
wished for silence. And they were satisfied with a very moderate
bakhshîsh at parting.
As a fitting sequel to this excursion, we went, I think next day, to see
the mosque of Sultan Hassan, which is one of those mediæval structures
said to have been built with the casing-stones of the great pyramid.
CHAPTER II.
CAIRO AND THE MECCA PILGRIMAGE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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