Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
The mosque of Sultan Hassan, confessedly the most beautiful in Cairo, is
also perhaps the most beautiful in the Moslem world. It was built at
just that happy moment when Arabian art in Egypt, having ceased merely
to appropriate or imitate, had at length evolved an original
architectural style out of the heterogeneous elements of Roman and early
Christian edifices. The mosques of a few centuries earlier (as, for
instance, that of Tulûn, which marks the first departure from the old
Byzantine model) consisted of little more than a court-yard with
colonnades leading to a hall supported on a forest of pillars. A little
more than a century later, and the national style had already
experienced the beginnings of that prolonged eclipse which finally
resulted in the bastard Neo-Byzantine renaissance represented by the
mosque of Mehemet Ali. But the mosque of Sultan Hassan, built
ninety-seven years before the taking of Constantinople, may justly be
regarded as the highest point reached by Saracenic art in Egypt after it
had used up the Greek and Roman material of Memphis, and before its
new-born originality became modified by influences from beyond the
Bosporus. Its pre-eminence is due neither to the greatness of its
dimensions nor to the splendor of its materials. It is neither so large
as the great mosque at Damascus, nor so rich in costly marbles as Saint
Sophia in Constantinople; but in design, proportion, and a certain lofty
grace impossible to describe, it surpasses these, and every other
mosque, whether original or adapted, with which the writer is
acquainted.
The whole structure is purely national. Every line and curve in it, and
every inch of detail, is in the best style of the best period of the
Arabian school. And above all, it was designed expressly for its present
purpose. The two famous mosques of Damascus and Constantinople having,
on the contrary, been Christian churches, betray evidences of
adaptation. In Saint Sophia, the space once occupied by the figure of
the Redeemer may be distinctly traced in the mosaic work of the apsis,
filled in with gold tesseræ of later date; while the magnificent gates
of the great mosque at Damascus are decorated, among other Christian
emblems, with the sacramental chalice. But the mosque of Sultan Hassan,
built by En Nasîr Hassan in the high and palmy days of the Memlook rule,
is marred by no discrepancies. For a mosque it was designed, and a
mosque it remains. Too soon it will be only a beautiful ruin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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