Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
This very reverend personage was closely followed by the chief of the
carpet-makers’ guild--a handsome man, sitting sidewise on a camel.
Then happened another break in the procession--an eager pause--a
gathering murmur. And then, riding a gaunt dromedary at a rapid trot,
his fat sides shaking and his head rolling in a drunken way at every
step, appeared a bloated, half-naked Silenus, with long fuzzy black
locks and triple chin, and no other clothing than a pair of short white
drawers and red slippers. A shiver of delight ran through the crowd at
sight of this holy man--the famous Sheik of the Camel (Sheik el-Gemel),
the “great, good priest”--the idol of the people. We afterward learned
that this was his twentieth pilgrimage, and that he was supposed to
fast, roll his head and wear nothing but this pair of loose drawers all
the way to and from Mecca.
But the crowning excitement was yet to come and the rapture with which
the crowd had greeted the Sheik el-Gemel was as nothing compared with
their ecstasy when the mahmal, preceded by another group of mounted
officers and borne by a gigantic camel, was seen coming through the
gateway. The women held up their children; the men swarmed up the
scaffoldings of the swings and behind the carriages. They screamed, they
shouted, they waved handkerchiefs and turbans; they were beside
themselves with excitement. Meanwhile the camel, as if conscious of the
dignity of his position and the splendor of his trappings, came on
slowly and ponderously with his nose in the air, and passed close before
our horses’ heads. We could not possibly have had better view of the
mahmal; which is nothing but a sort of cage, or pagoda, of gilded
tracery very richly decorated. In the days of the Memlooks, the mahmal
represented the litter of the sultan, and went empty, like a royal
carriage at the public funeral;[6] but we were told that it now carried
the tribute-carpet sent annually by the carpet-makers of Cairo to the
tomb of the prophet.
This closed the procession. As the camel passed, the crowd surged in,
and everything like order was at an end. The carriages all made at once
for the gate, so meeting the full tide of the outpouring crowd and
causing unimaginable confusion. Some stuck in the sand half-way--our own
among the number; and all got into an inextricable block in the narrow
part just inside the gate. Hereupon the drivers abused each other and
the crowd got impatient, and some Europeans got pelted.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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