Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
happened that we afterward came in the way of several Mohammedan
festivals both in Egypt and Syria, and we invariably found the swings at
work all day and the fire-works going off every evening.
To-day the swings outside the Báb en-Nasr were never idle. Here were
creaking Russian swings hung with little painted chariots for the
children; and plain rope swings, some of them as high as Haman’s
gallows, for the men. For my own part, I know no sight more comic and
incongruous than the serene enjoyment with which a bearded, turbaned,
middle-aged Egyptian squats upon his heels on the tiny wooden seat of
one of these enormous swings, and, holding on to the side-ropes for dear
life, goes careering up forty feet high into the air at every turn.
At a little before midday, when the heat and glare were becoming
intolerable, the swings suddenly ceased going, the crowd surged in the
direction of the gate, and a distant drumming announced the approach of
the procession. First came a string of baggage-camels laden with tent
furniture; then some two hundred pilgrims on foot, chanting passages
from the Korân; then a regiment of Egyptian infantry, the men in a
coarse white linen uniform, consisting of coat, baggy trousers and
gaiters, with cross-belts and cartouche-boxes of plain black leather,
and the red fez, or tarboosh, on the head. Next after these came more
pilgrims, followed by a body of dervishes carrying green banners
embroidered with Arabic sentences in white and yellow; then a native
cavalry regiment headed by a general and four colonels in magnificent
gold embroidery and preceded by an excellent military band; then another
band and a second regiment of infantry; then more colonels, followed by
a regiment of lancers mounted on capital gray horses and carrying lances
topped with small red and green pennants. After these had gone by there
was a long stoppage, and then, with endless breaks and interruptions,
came a straggling, irregular crowd of pilgrims, chiefly of the fellah
class, beating small darabukkehs, or native drums. Those about us
estimated their number at two thousand. And now, their guttural chorus
audible long before they arrived in sight, came the howling dervishes--a
ragged, wild-looking, ruffianly set, rolling their heads from side to
side, and keeping up a hoarse, incessant cry of “Allàh! Allàh! Allàh!”
Of these there may have been a couple of hundred. The sheiks of the
principal order of dervishes came next in order, superbly dressed in
robes of brilliant colors embroidered with gold and mounted on
magnificent Arabs. Finest of all, in a green turban and scarlet mantle,
rode the Sheik of Hasaneyn, who is a descendant of the prophet; but the
most important, the Sheik el Bekree, who is a sort of Egyptian
Archbishop of Canterbury, and head of all the dervishes, came last,
riding a white Arab with gold-embroidered housings. He was a
placid-looking old man, and wore a violet robe and an enormous red and
green turban.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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