Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
A long time went by thus. At last, when the number of dervishes had
increased to about seventy, and every one was tired of waiting, eight
musicians came in--two trumpets, two lutes, a cocoanut fiddle, a
tambourine, and two drums. Then the dervishes, some of whom were old and
white haired and some mere boys, formed themselves into a great circle,
shoulder to shoulder; the band struck up a plaintive, discordant air;
and a grave middle aged man, placing himself in the center of the ring
and inclining his head at each repetition, began to recite the name of
Allàh.
Softly at first, and one by one, the dervishes took up the chant:
“Allàh! Allàh! Allàh!” Their heads and their voices rose and fell in
unison. The dome above gave back a hollow echo. There was something
strange and solemn in the ceremony.
Presently, however, the trumpets brayed louder--the voices grew
hoarser--the heads bowed lower--the name of Allàh rang out faster and
faster, fiercer and fiercer. The leader, himself cool and collected,
began sensibly accelerating the time of the chorus; and it became
evident that the performers were possessed by a growing frenzy. Soon the
whole circle was madly rocking to and fro; the voices rose to a hoarse
scream; and only the trumpets were audible above the din. Now and then a
dervish would spring up convulsively some three or four feet above the
heads of the others; but for the most part they stood firmly rooted to
one spot--now bowing their heads almost to their feet--now flinging
themselves so violently back that we, standing behind, could see their
faces foreshortened upside down; and this with such incredible rapidity
that their long hair had scarcely time either to rise or fall, but
remained as if suspended in mid-air. Still the frenzy mounted; still the
pace quickened. Some shrieked--some groaned--some, unable to support
themselves any longer, were held up in their places by the by-standers.
All were mad for the time being. Our own heads seemed to be going round
at last; and more than one of the ladies present looked longingly toward
the door. It was, in truth, a horrible sight, and needed only darkness
and torchlight to be quite diabolical.
At length, just as the fury was at its height and the very building
seemed to be rocking to and fro above our heads, one poor wretch
staggered out of the circle and fell, writhing and shrieking, close
against our feet. At the same moment the leader clapped his hands; the
performers, panting and exhausted, dropped into a sitting posture; and
the first zikr, as it is called, came abruptly to an end. Some few,
however, could not stop immediately, but kept on swaying and muttering
to themselves; while the one in the fit having ceased to shriek, lay out
stiff and straight, apparently in a state of coma.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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