Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
There was a murmur of relief and a simultaneous rising among the
spectators. It was announced that another zikr, with a re-enforcement of
fresh dervishes, would soon begin; but the Europeans had had enough of
it, and few remained for the second performance.
Going out we paused beside the poor fellow on the floor, and asked if
nothing could be done for him.
“He is struck by Mohammed,” said gravely an Egyptian official who was
standing by.
At that moment the leader came over, knelt down beside him, touched him
lightly on the head and breast, and whispered something in his ear. The
man was then quite rigid and white as death. We waited, however, and
after a few more minutes saw him struggle back into a dazed,
half-conscious state, when he was helped to his feet and led away by his
friends.
The court-yard as we came out was full of dervishes sitting on cane
benches in the shade and sipping coffee. The green leaves rustled
overhead with glimpses of intensely blue sky between; and brilliant
patches of sunshine flickered down upon groups of wild-looking,
half-savage figures in party-colored garments. It was one of those
ready-made subjects that the sketcher passes by with a sigh, but which
live in his memory forever.
From hence, being within a few minutes’ drive of old Cairo, we went on
as far as the Mosque of Amr--an uninteresting ruin stands alone among
the rubbish-mounds of the first Mohammedan capital of Egypt. It is
constructed on the plan of a single quadrangle two hundred and
twenty-five feet square, surrounded by a covered colonnade one range of
pillars in depth on the west (which is the side of the entrance); four
on the north; three on the south; and six on the east, which is the
place of prayer, and contains three holy niches and the pulpit. The
columns, two hundred and forty-five in number, have been brought from
earlier Roman and Byzantine buildings. They are of various marbles and
have all kinds of capitals. Some being originally too short, have been
stilted on disproportionately high bases; and in one instance the
necessary height has been obtained by adding a second capital on the top
of the first. We observed one column of that rare black and white
speckled marble of which there is a specimen in the pulpit of St. Mark’s
in Venice; and one of the holy niches contains some fragments of
Byzantine mosaics. But the whole building seems to have been put
together in a barbarous way, and would appear to owe its present state
of dilapidation more to bad workmanship than to time. Many of the
pillars, especially on the western side, are fallen and broken; the
octagonal fountain in the center is a roofless ruin; and the little
minaret at the southeast corner is no longer safe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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