A Tour Up the Straits, from Gibraltar to Constantinople: With the Leading Events in the Present War Between the Austrians, Russians, and the Turks, to the Commencement of the Year 1789Sutherland, David, Captain
History
A Tour Up the Straits, from Gibraltar to Constantinople: With the Leading Events in the Present War Between the Austrians, Russians, and the Turks, to the Commencement of the Year 1789
Sutherland, David, Captain
Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel; Russo-Turkish War, 1787-1792
The lake seems to have lost the noxious qualities Virgil ascribed to it;
but this, I imagine, is owing to most of the high trees with which it
was closely surrounded being cut down, and little but brushwood left.
The temple is at a small distance on the right of the lake; we wanted to
go to it, but our Cicerone persuaded us that it would be better to delay
seeing that and the entrance into Hell, until we had been at Cuma.
We therefore repassed the Sibyl's Cave, and returning to the Lucrine
Lake, again embarked, and proceeded along the shore to the foot of
Nero's Palace, where the sand under the sea water is so hot, that we
could scarcely touch it. The effect of subterraneous fire.
The baths are above. These are several large chambers, divided into
different apartments for the men and women, with two subterranean
passages leading to the water, which unite at the distance of two
hundred yards from the spring. Here the heat is so excessive and
insupportable, that it is supposed no longer necessary to continue the
separate passages, since even should persons of different sexes advance
thus far, there is no danger of their being noticed by each other, for
to get here cost us great pain; and all our clothes, in a few seconds,
were wet through with perspiration.
This is what they call bathing, for nobody can bear the water. One of
our guides, for a pecuniary reward, brought a little in a bucket, and
boiled some eggs in it, which were afterwards served at our table in a
shady spot on the adjoining classic ground; and we crowned this grateful
repast with the health of a favorite fair, in a smiling bumper of real
Falernian, from the very vineyards which have been celebrated by Horace.
The wine was remarkably good, and the heavenly toast gave it a still
higher flavour. I am convinced that it would have found its way to
England, had not the Italians lost the art of preserving it. One must
therefore either drink it new or sour.
About two miles from Nero's Baths, we were shewn the Temple of Diana, a
large dome, one half of which was destroyed by an earthquake, the other
remains. The Temple of Mercury is on the opposite side of a modern
bridge. The dome is still entire, and is seventy feet in diameter. It
has a similar effect to the whispering gallery at St. Paul's. Part of
the roof is lined with common mosaic. The walls of the different
out-offices are still standing, and the court has been lately planted
with lemon and orange trees, which, in time, will add greatly to the
beauty of its appearance. This spot seems to have been particularly
sacred, for not an hundred yards further is a large octagon tower, the
remains of a Temple of Venus Genetrix, but no other vestige of it is
left.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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