A Tour Up the Straits, from Gibraltar to Constantinople: With the Leading Events in the Present War Between the Austrians, Russians, and the Turks, to the Commencement of the Year 1789Sutherland, David, Captain
History
A Tour Up the Straits, from Gibraltar to Constantinople: With the Leading Events in the Present War Between the Austrians, Russians, and the Turks, to the Commencement of the Year 1789
Sutherland, David, Captain
Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel; Russo-Turkish War, 1787-1792
Here we again embarked, and after rowing some little way along the
shore, landed and walked to the top of a hill, from which we had a view
of the Elysian Fields, and of Lake Acheron below us. The lake is
changed, like Avernus, but the Elysian Fields are still a beautiful
wilderness. On our way we passed several ancient burying-places, and a
variety of other ruins--ruins in the truest sense of the word, for the
whole is an heap of rubbish.
A little beyond this is the famous reservoir constructed for the use of
the Roman Navy. The roof is supported by forty-eight square pillars,
with a proportional number of arches, something in the style of the
Nun's Cistern at Gibraltar, but on a scale so much more grand, that it
would contain above an hundred times the quantity of water.
From thence we proceeded through a vineyard to an amazing subterraneous
building, supposed to have been Nero's prisons. The gallery is about
twelve feet high, and nine wide. We were told that it proceeds in a
right line from the entrance to the sea, and is divided into near an
hundred apartments; but as it is full of stones, and as the air is said
to be prodigiously hurtful, we could not prevail on our guide to descend
to any distance in this direction, but, turning to the left, we entered
a range of apartments in the form of a cross, which we supposed were for
the officers, as the partition walls are only carried to within two feet
of the arch. In the inmost fourteen bronze lamps were found. The niches
they stood in still remain. On striking the ground, it returned a hollow
sound, as if there was a range of prisons beneath.
As soon as we returned to day-light, we descended to the sea-side, to
the tomb of Agrippina. It is an arched vault, fifteen feet long, and
nine wide, almost filled up with rubbish. The walls are covered with
elegant basso-relievo miniature figures, in small squares, remarkably
neat and beautiful; one represents a female deity, with extended wings,
soaring in the air; two others are women reclining on a couch, but so
choaked up with smoke and soot from the torches, that it is impossible
to determine who they are: the workmanship, however, one easily
perceives, exhibits the hand of a capital master, who has displayed so
much taste, beauty and harmony, that we are almost tempted to forget
Agrippina's crimes; and, in pitying her fate, we redouble our horror at
the inhuman parricide who sent her to her tomb.
It is not known by whom this monument was erected; and I think it not
improbable, that it might have been ordered by Nero himself, since he is
reported to have said, that, had he known how beautiful his mother was,
he never would have destroyed her.
Having now seen every thing on the coast of Baia, we returned to
Puzzoli, and, to our inexpressible concern, found that it was too late
to continue our excursion to Cuma.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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