Puzzoli abounds with antiquities; but the temple of Jupiter Serapis is the only one we had time to see. This was one of the most noble structures yet brought to light; and we can never sufficiently lament, that it has not been preserved in the state in which it was found. The court is a square of one hundred and twenty feet, and was surrounded by a magnificent colonnade, which, together with the roof and pavement, were of beautiful marble. It contained many elegant statues, and every other religious ornament; but the King was seized with such an avidity for these treasures, that he had them all removed to his different palaces, with the exception of four columns only, which are left, as a sample, before the entrance of the inner temple, each eighteen feet in circumference, and forty in height. The temple itself was again stopped up with rubbish, after all its ornaments were taken away. In the center of the court, an altar was raised for sacrifice; but, as it was composed of the finest materials, it was crushed by the earthquake that buried the temple. The base still remains, with the ring to which the victim was tied, and the vessels for holding its blood. LETTER VII. TO CAPTAIN SMITH. Naples, September 20th. MY DEAR FRIEND, WE returned to Naples, highly gratified with our expedition to Baia, and, after a day's rest, set out for Mount Vesuvius. The foot of the mountain is about six miles off. We went at night, in order to view the crater to the greatest advantage, and were about two hours in walking from the base to the hermitage. The road, although steep, is tolerably good; and a light carriage may ascend the greatest part of it. Father Pietro, the Hermit, received us with great hospitality; and, although turned of eighty, he is by no means insensible to those charms of society which are consistent with the gravity of his order. He seemed a person of a liberal education, spoke with great judgment of the ancients, and was well informed of the state of Europe at the time of his retirement. In the course of conversation, he mentioned his having been in England, which led us to enquire in what capacity. Conceive our surprize, when this venerable sage told us that he had been a French hair-dresser! But the frankness and the grace with which he made this declaration, increased our esteem; and his conversation proved, that however low his origin, his abilities and application had raised him superior to most of us.