A Tour Up the Straits, from Gibraltar to Constantinople: With the Leading Events in the Present War Between the Austrians, Russians, and the Turks, to the Commencement of the Year 1789Sutherland, David, Captain
History
A Tour Up the Straits, from Gibraltar to Constantinople: With the Leading Events in the Present War Between the Austrians, Russians, and the Turks, to the Commencement of the Year 1789
Sutherland, David, Captain
Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel; Russo-Turkish War, 1787-1792
Several of the lower rooms are filled with statues, not yet put up. The
best is Agrippina sitting on a chair, with her feet out, so very
natural, that I was on the point of bowing to her. The Theatre is
nothing extraordinary. The aqueduct we had not time to see.
St. Januarius is the tutelar saint of the Neapolitans. His feast is now
celebrating. The people out of doors affect to laugh at the idea of his
blood liquifying, but when the pretended miracle was performed, all of
them kissed the phial with great fervour. The _Nobile_ have given an
oratorio in honor of him; Sir William Hamilton sent us tickets for it.
During this festival the operas are suspended; which has prevented our
seeing more than two. The Theatre of St. Carlos, performers, dresses,
&c. are, in every respect, superior to ours; and yet, instead of
half-a-guinea, the price of admittance is only about eighteen pence.
In England, the singers are never obliged to exert themselves for any
time together: here I have heard _La Banti_ in a cantata that hath
required a constant exertion for near half an hour; _Tomeone_, though
less powerful, is more pleasing: in _Pace caro mio Sposo_, she is
absolutely incomparable. The Coltalines make too many faces; and this is
often the case with the men; but, however hideous in private parties, it
is not much observed on the stage. Their dances are longer than ours,
and, when they form part of the piece, are accompanied by voices.
It would be presumption to attempt to describe the manners of the
Italians on so short an acquaintance. Suffice it to say, that we have
been treated with the utmost attention; that the people are remarkably
partial to our nation; and that being an English Officer is a sufficient
introduction to the first company.
If the lower sort have sometimes taken advantage of our inexperience, it
is no more than we have suffered at home; for, who are more imposing,
particularly to foreigners, than the publicans, waiters, and all that
class of people, in England?
In short, I should be apt to give a very high character of the
Neapolitans, had I not been told that they do not merit the favorable
opinion I have formed of them, and that the civility of the men often
ends in winning your money, whilst that of the women proceeds from an
amorous disposition, tinctured with avarice: but all this it would be
ungenerous to believe, since we have not experienced an instance of
either. The frailty of women I can pity, as well as condemn: but how a
lady can sell her virtue, is, though perhaps it may be accounted for
here, what Englishmen I hope will never comprehend.
The Princess Belmonté is particularly entitled to our regard. Her
fortune renders her superior to any sordid views; and yet she has always
been remarkable for the kindest attention to our countrymen. Her
Highness invited us to a party at her casino, and shewed us a room
entirely furnished in the English style, with the best productions of
Bunbury, Hamilton and Strange.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
A Tour Up the Straits, from Gibraltar to Constantinople: With the Leading Events in the Present War Between the Austrians, Russians, and the Turks, to the Commencement of the Year 1789 — John Shaqi
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