A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
History
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
buffeting them about, till they become not only clean, but completely
felted.
All of our broadcloths have been subjected to its action, in the
process of which the hairs of the weft and those of the warp have
become mutually entangled, and each with one another, as with hatting
in the regular hand process of loose wool or fur felting. Indeed,
every hair composing the whole piece of cloth has its individual and
independent progressive motions, combining the threads of both warp and
weft together to such an extent that these cloths never unravel, and no
hemming of a garment is required in the making of our clothes.
Twelve hours in the mill will reduce a piece of cloth two-fifths of its
breadth and one-third of its length.
The progressive travelling motion of the hair resulting in the
entanglement of the fibres and consequent felting and shrinking of the
cloth, is further exemplified in the comfortable soft half-dress caps
of the British soldiers, and in the bonnets and caps of the Scottish
peasantry generally, which have all been first knitted very large with
soft spun yarn, and afterwards felted down to the required size in the
fulling mill. During the fulling of any and all kinds of goods, they
must be frequently taken out of the trough, to be stretched, turned,
the folds straightened, and generally inspected.
History of Hats and Hatting.
The word hat is of Saxon derivation, being the name of a well-known
piece of dress worn upon the head by both sexes, but principally by the
men, as a covering from the hot sun of summer, the cold of winter,
a defence from the blows of battle, or for fashion. Being the most
conspicuous article of dress, and surmounting all the rest, it has
often been ornamented with showy plumes, and jewels, and with bands
of gold, silver, &c. It is generally distinguished from a cap by its
having a brim, which a cap has not, although there are exceptions even
to this rule of distinction, for there are hats that have no brims,
and there are also caps that are provided with a margin. Those hats
that are made of fur or wool have all been felted, and felt strictly
speaking is a fabric manufactured by matting the fibres together,
without the preliminary operation of either spinning or of weaving.
We find but little of hat-making recorded in history, and anything
relating to hats is extremely meagre, although their partial use may be
traced back to the time of ancient Greece amongst the Dorian tribes,
probably as early as the age of Homer, when they were worn, although
only by the better class of citizens when on a distant journey. The
same custom prevailed among the Athenians, as is evident from some of
the equestrian figures in the Elgin Marbles.
The Romans used a bonnet or cap at their sacrifices and festivals,
but on a journey the hat with a brim was adopted. In the middle ages
the bonnet or cap with a front was in use among the laity, while the
ecclesiastics wore hoods, or cowls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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