A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
History
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
The usual quantity of stuff given out for a regular felt hat, modified
of course to a very great extent by the market, we shall suppose to be
three ounces of fur. It may or may not be a mixture of different kinds
and qualities of stuff previously prepared by carroting, and may or may
not be refined by the winnowing machine, which separates the different
qualities of fur. These three ounces, however, are sometimes increased
by unprincipled men to four and a quarter or four and a half ounces,
by the addition of other and cheaper ingredients, which are all laid
upon a platform of boards about five feet square, called a hurdle, over
which a large bow of about six feet long strung with cat-gut, Fig. 1,
is suspended. This bow is held by the left hand of the hatter, and with
the right he holds a small piece of wood with a head or knot upon it,
Fig. 2, with which he tugs the string of the bow and makes it vibrate
upon the stuff, and into it, with great dexterity and with the nicest
judgment. This operation has always been considered a beautiful sight
to a stranger, as the performer goes on plucking the string, and the
string playing upon the top of the fur, which lies upon the left hand
side of the platform. The fur touched by the string is made to fly from
one side of the boards to the other with the greatest regularity. So
nicely is this bowing performed, the stuff flying from the bow-string
hair by hair, and flake by flake, that a hat in this loose state may
measure several inches in thickness.
[Illustration: Fig. 1.
Hat Bow.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.
Bow-Pin.]
In this operation, the different materials are tossed about to-and-fro
repeatedly, and mixed with a much greater regularity and change of
position of the various filaments than if drawn by carding machinery.
One half of the intended hat, called a bat, is bowed at a time, and
both in nearly a triangular shape, which being gathered up, and pressed
with a flat square piece of wicker-work, Fig. 3, and afterwards with
a smooth skin or cloth, is pressed and gently rubbed with the hands
backward and forward so as to create a friction on the surface
fibres, thereby interlacing the outside filaments, by which means
the simply safe-lifting of these two half-solidified portions of the
future hat is secured. The one-half being laid upon the other, with a
triangular piece of paper or cloth between, they are joined together by
overlapping two of the three sides, thereby giving to the intended hat
the form and figure of a hollow cone or great bag, but so tender that
none but an experienced hatter could handle it.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.
Hat Basket.]
This operation of bowing is the same, with but little variation,
whether it be for coarse or fine hats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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