A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
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A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
If wholly of wool, they are now swaddled carefully in an outer cloth,
and sprinkled with water, and laid upon a warm plate of metal which
sends the steam up through the hat which is to be pressed, and slightly
rubbed, sprinkled again, and turned over. Continuing the pressing and
rubbing, and by repeating these operations for some time, the motions
are transmitted to all the inclosed fibres of wool with an irritating
feeling, as it were, exciting their propensity for travelling, till the
outer hairs, in their motions, warp themselves with each other and the
surface appears skin-like and becomes smooth.
During these actions, the hat inside of the cloth must be several
times changed in position and kept in proper form, when its swaddling
envelope and the paper within which kept the inside open and free may
be removed. These operations concluded, the tender hat must now be
subjected to a much more laborious operation, where, properly speaking,
the grand practical art of felting takes place, where thousands of
thousands of filaments are all in active though slow motion, all
travelling on their own individual course, independent of, and at the
same time dependent upon, each other for their mutual support, being
carefully guided collectively, by the hatter's good judgment.
This stage of the operation is a wet one requiring an open boiler
surrounded by planks, which slope towards the centre, called a battery,
Fig. 4, suitable for six or eight men to work at. Each man is provided
with a rolling-pin, cloths, brushes, &c. The soft and tender hat is
laid upon one of these planks or benches, wrapped in a damp cloth, and
carefully wetted, squeezed, folded, rolled and unrolled, keeping it
constantly moistened by dipping it in the hot water of the boiler,
folding and unfolding with every variety of crossings, rolling it as
a scroll, pressing, shaking, dipping and rolling it again and again,
the hatter all the while bending over his work in front of the almost
boiling caldron, and surrounded by steam. He labors hard, ever changing
the position of the hat under his hands, so as to make it an evenly
felted and perfect piece of work, which these oft-repeated motions
ultimately accomplish.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.
Battery for Sizing Hats.]
This is the grand felting operation; the cause of which was so long
considered a mystery, and now ascertained to result from the peculiar
natural construction of the animal fibre, as already explained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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