A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair — John Shaqi
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
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A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
In the process of fur felting there is a constant tendency for the
strong straight hairs of the body to work to the outside, so that
whether the hat is designed to receive a BARE finish afterwards, or to
get a plated cover of beaver for a nap, those bodies must all undergo
the operation of shaving. A workman sits in another apartment with
one of them, when dry, spread over his knee, and with a long bladed
sharp knife in hand, sweeps rapidly over the surface, cutting off and
depriving it of those deteriorating superfluous intruders, after which
the hats are forwarded to the stiffening department.
Stiffening Process.
The bodies of the hats now made, dried and shaved, and the spirit
water-proofing already prepared, being thinned, or reduced to the
proper consistence, the hat is laid upon a flat sloping board, and the
stiffening is put into it with a stout brush, and soaked to that degree
of saturation known only by experience, the brims receiving a double
portion for extra stoutness, and are then set aside to dry.
The alkali or inferior kind of stiffening, when used, is likewise
diluted, and applied by immersing the body fully into the prepared
ingredients already described, and either wrung out with the hands,
or passed a couple of times between a pair of rollers set at a proper
width, which determines the quantity of proofing absorbed by the hat.
It should be observed, regarding this stiffening of hats, that it is
simply a varnishing of the several fibres of the fur of which the
hat is made, each hair individually has got a coat of water-proofing
varnish, for when dry it will be found that the interstices between
each and every fibre are quite open and free, and therefore susceptible
of ventilation; thus differing entirely from what would have been the
case had it been stiffened with any kind of paste.
Ruffing or Napping.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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