A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and HairThomson, John, hatter
History
A Treatise on Hat-Making and Felting: Including a Full Exposition of the Singular Properties of Fur, Wool, and Hair
Thomson, John, hatter
Hats
Very little of this is done at present in the United States. After the
bare body of the hat is stiffened, if a flowing nap of beaver, otter,
neutra, or other fine fur is desired, finer than that of which the
body is made, half an ounce more or less of the superior uncarroted
stuff is weighed out, sufficient to cover the whole outside surface of
the hat. The hatter lays this precious morsel with perhaps one-eighth
ounce of cotton on the hurdle, under the bow, as he did with the stuff
for the body, and with a similar but lighter instrument, these two
stuffs are completely mixed and spread upon the boards, as evenly as
his experienced hands can do it; the cotton being used merely to enable
him to handle the fur, which otherwise would be so thinly spread, and
so attenuated of itself, as to endanger the simple act of lifting it.
This mixture of fur and cotton is next spread upon the wet bare body
of the hat as it lies upon the plank at the kettle, a little water is
sprinkled over it and beat down with a brush. The hat with this surface
covering is wrapped very carefully in a piece of cloth or coarse
hair-cloth, and operated on very lightly, and nearly in the same manner
as when felting the body. The object to be attained is to get the
fibres of the fine fur to penetrate the body, and take root as it were
therein--great care and watchfulness being demanded of the workman at
every motion of his hands, in this manner of working. The points of the
fibres of the beaver fur penetrate the body of the hat, and having once
got a footing, it constantly advances, as the active careful rolling,
folding and unfolding, shaking and tossing go on, until the fur has
separated itself from the cotton; by its boring, having obtained a
firm lodgment in the solid felt of the hat body root end foremost. The
cotton with which it was mixed is left behind loose and useless, for
want of the little rough scaly property that the other possessed. An
inexperienced workman in thus ruffing a hat is liable to continue his
work too long, until the beaver napping has burrowed quite through to
the inside of the hat, where it is lost.[C]
In the various operations of the hatter with hot water, whether in
body-making, napping, or dyeing, &c., the water should not be allowed
to boil, for independent of the damage to some kinds of stiffening, as
hair contains a large portion of gelatine in its substance (to which
alone it owes its suppleness and toughness), this gelatine will be
separated from the hair. This is particularly the case with napped
hats, for when thus treated the fibre becomes much more brittle than
before, and the nap soon breaks off round the square.
Fur hats having a flowing nap are sometimes clipped very short with
revolving shears similar to those used in dressing cloth, and which is
done previous to blocking or dyeing.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.
Hat Block.]
Blocking.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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