A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters — John Shaqi
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
As the only agreeable view in Venice is from the grand canal, so the
only place where you can walk with ease and safety, is in the piazza di
St. Marco. This is a kind of irregular quadrangle, formed by a number of
buildings, all singular in their kind, and very different from each other.
The Ducal palace—the church of St. Mark—that of St. Giminiano—a noble
range of buildings, called Procuratie, the new and the old, in which are
the Museum, the public library, and nine large apartments belonging to
the Procurators of St. Mark; all these buildings are of marble.
There is an opening from St. Mark’s Place to the sea, on which stand two
lofty pillars of granite. Criminals condemned to suffer death publicly,
are executed between these pillars; on the top of one of them is a lion,
with wings; and on the other, a saint—without wings;—there is, however,
a large crocodile at his feet, which, I presume, belongs to him. At one
corner of St. Mark’s church, contiguous to the palace, are two statues
of Adam and Eve; they have neither wings nor crocodile, nor any kind of
attendant, not even their old acquaintance, the serpent.
At the corner of the new Procuratie, a little distant from the church,
stands the steeple of St. Mark. This is a quadrangular tower, about
three hundred feet in height. I am told it is not uncommon in Italy for
the church and steeple to be in this state of disunion; this shocked a
clergyman, of my acquaintance, very much; he mentioned it to me, many
years ago, amongst the errors and absurdities of the church of Rome. The
gentleman was clearly of opinion, that church and steeple ought to be
inseparable as man and wife, and that every church ought to consider its
steeple as mortar of its mortar, and stone of its stone. An old captain
of a ship, who was present, declared himself of the same way of thinking,
and swore that a church, divorced from its steeple, appeared to him as
ridiculous as a ship without a mast.
A few paces from the church are three tall poles, on which ensigns
and flags are hung on days of public rejoicing. These standards are
in memory of the three kingdoms, Cyprus, Candia, and Negropont, which
once belonged to this republic; the three crowns are still kept in the
Ducal palace. Since the kingdoms are gone, I should think the crowns
and the poles hardly worth preserving; they are, however, of the same
value to Venice, that the title of King of France is to his Britannic
Majesty. At the bottom of the Tower of St. Mark, is a small neat building
of marble, called the Loggietta, where some of the Procurators of St.
Mark constantly attend to do business. Some people are of opinion that,
particularly when the grand council, or the senate, are assembled, these
Procurators are placed there, as state centinels, to give warning in
case of any appearance of discontent or commotion among the populace,
which must necessarily shew itself at this place, as there is no other in
Venice where a mob could assemble.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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