A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
The Ducal palace is an immense building, entirely of marble. Besides
the apartments of the Doge, there are also halls and chambers for the
senate, and all the different councils and tribunals. The principal
entrance is by a spacious stair, called the Giants stair, on account of
two Colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, placed at the top; they are of
white marble, the work of Sansovino, and intended to represent the naval
and military power of this state. Their gigantic size might be proper
enough formerly, but they would be juster emblems of the present force of
this republic if their stature were more moderate.
Under the porticoes, to which you ascend by this stair, you may perceive
the gaping mouths of lions, to receive anonymous letters, informations
of treasonable practices, and accusations of magistrates for abuses in
office.
From the palace there is a covered bridge of communication to a state
prison, on the other side of the canal. Prisoners pass to and from the
courts over this bridge, which is named Ponte Dei Sospiri.
The apartments and halls of the Ducal palace are ornamented by the
pencils of Titian, Paul Veronese, Tintoret, Palma, the Bassans, and other
painters. The rape of Europa, and the storming of Zara, both by Paul
Veronese are amongst the highest esteemed pieces of that master. The foot
of Europa is honoured with the particular admiration of the connoisseurs;
the bull seems to be of their way of thinking, for he licks it as he
bears her along above the waves. Some people admire even this thought
of the painter; I cannot say I am of the number: I think it is the only
thing in the picture which is not admirable; it is making Jupiter enter
a little too much into the character which he had assumed. There are a
few pictures in this palace by Titian, but a great many by the other
masters. The subjects are mostly taken from the history of Venice.
Within the palace there is a little arsenal, which communicates with
the hall of the great council. Here a great number of muskets are kept,
ready charged, with which the nobles may arm themselves on any sudden
insurrection, or other emergency.
The lower gallery, or the piazza under the palace, is called the Broglio.
In this the noble Venetians walk and converse: it is only here, and at
council, where they have opportunities of meeting together; for they
seldom visit openly, or in a family way, at each other’s houses, and
secret meetings would give umbrage to the state inquisitors; they chuse,
therefore, to transact their business on this public walk. People of
inferior rank seldom remain on the Broglio for any length of time when
the nobility are there.
LETTER VI.
Venice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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