A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.Thoreau, Henry David
History
A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.
Thoreau, Henry David
Brown, John, 1800-1859; Québec (Province) -- Description and travel; Slavery -- United States
When we inquired here for a _maison publique_ we were directed
apparently to that private house where we were most likely to find
entertainment. There were no guideboards where we walked, because there
was but one road; there were no shops nor signs, because there were no
artisans to speak of, and the people raised their own provisions; and
there were no taverns, because there were no travellers. We here bespoke
lodging and breakfast. They had, as usual, a large old-fashioned,
two-storied box-stove in the middle of the room, out of which, in due
time, there was sure to be forthcoming a supper, breakfast, or dinner.
The lower half held the fire, the upper the hot air, and as it was a
cool Canadian evening, this was a comforting sight to us. Being four or
five feet high it warmed the whole person as you stood by it. The stove
was plainly a very important article of furniture in Canada, and was not
set aside during the summer. Its size, and the respect which was paid to
it, told of the severe winters which it had seen and prevailed over. The
master of the house, in his long-pointed, red woollen cap, had a
thoroughly antique physiognomy of the old Norman stamp. He might have
come over with Jacques Cartier. His was the hardest French to understand
of any we had heard yet, for there was a great difference between one
speaker and another, and this man talked with a pipe in his mouth
beside, a kind of tobacco French. I asked him what he called his dog. He
shouted _Brock!_ (the name of the breed). We like to hear the cat called
_min_,—min! min! min! I inquired if we could cross the river here to the
Isle of Orleans, thinking to return that way when we had been to the
Falls. He answered, “_S’il ne fait pas un trop grand vent_,” If there is
not too much wind. They use small boats, or pirogues, and the waves are
often too high for them. He wore, as usual, something between a moccasin
and a boot, which he called _bottes Indiennes_, Indian boots, and had
made himself. The tops were of calf or sheep-skin, and the soles of
cowhide turned up like a moccasin. They were yellow or reddish, the
leather never having been tanned nor colored. The women wore the same.
He told us that he had travelled ten leagues due north into the bush. He
had been to the Falls of St. Anne, and said that they were more
beautiful, but not greater, than Montmorenci, _plus beau, mais non plus
grand que Montmorenci_. As soon as we had retired, the family commenced
their devotions. A little boy officiated, and for a long time we heard
him muttering over his prayers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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