A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.Thoreau, Henry David
History
A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.
Thoreau, Henry David
Brown, John, 1800-1859; Québec (Province) -- Description and travel; Slavery -- United States
The falls, which we were in search of, are three miles up the St. Anne.
We followed for a short distance a foot-path up the east bank of this
river, through handsome sugar-maple and arbor-vitæ groves. Having lost
the path which led to a house where we were to get further directions,
we dashed at once into the woods, steering by guess and by compass,
climbing directly through woods, a steep hill, or mountain, five or six
hundred feet high, which was, in fact, only the bank of the St.
Lawrence. Beyond this we by good luck fell into another path, and
following this or a branch of it, at our discretion, through a forest
consisting of large white pines,—the first we had seen in our walk,—we
at length heard the roar of falling water, and came out at the head of
the Falls of St. Anne. We had descended into a ravine or cleft in the
mountain, whose walls rose still a hundred feet above us, though we were
near its top, and we now stood on a very rocky shore, where the water
had lately flowed a dozen feet higher, as appeared by the stones and
drift-wood, and large birches twisted and splintered as a farmer twists
a withe. Here the river, one or two hundred feet wide, came flowing
rapidly over a rocky bed out of that interesting wilderness which
stretches toward Hudson’s Bay and Davis’s Straits. Ha-ha Bay, on the
Saguenay, was about one hundred miles north of where we stood. Looking
on the map, I find that the first country on the north which bears a
name is that part of Rupert’s Land called East Main. This river, called
after the holy Anne, flowing from such a direction, here tumbled over a
precipice, at present by three channels, how far down I do not know, but
far enough for all our purposes, and to as good a distance as if twice
as far. It matters little whether you call it one, or two, or three
hundred feet; at any rate, it was a sufficient Water-privilege for us. I
crossed the principal channel directly over the verge of the fall, where
it was contracted to about fifteen feet in width by a dead tree, which
had been dropped across and secured in a cleft of the opposite rock, and
a smaller one a few feet higher, which served for a hand-rail. This
bridge was rotten as well as small and slippery, being stripped of bark,
and I was obliged to seize a moment to pass when the falling water did
not surge over it, and mid-way, though at the expense of wet feet, I
looked down probably more than a hundred feet, into the mist and foam
below. This gave me the freedom of an island of precipitous rock, by
which I descended as by giant steps, the rock being composed of large
cubical masses, clothed with delicate close-hugging lichens of various
colors, kept fresh and bright by the moisture, till I viewed the first
fall from the front, and looked down still deeper to where the second
and third channels fell into a remarkably large circular basin worn in
the stone. The falling water seemed to jar the very rocks, and the noise
to be ever increasing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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