A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.Thoreau, Henry David
History
A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.
Thoreau, Henry David
Brown, John, 1800-1859; Québec (Province) -- Description and travel; Slavery -- United States
The number of French-Canadian gentlemen and ladies among the passengers,
and the sound of the French language, advertised us by this time that we
were being whirled towards some foreign vortex. And now we have left
Rouse’s Point, and entered the Sorel River, and passed the invisible
barrier between the States and Canada. The shores of the Sorel,
Richelieu, or St. John’s River, are flat and reedy, where I had expected
something more rough and mountainous for a natural boundary between two
nations. Yet I saw a difference at once, in the few huts, in the
pirogues on the shore, and as it were, in the shore itself. This was an
interesting scenery to me, and the very reeds or rushes in the shallow
water, and the tree-tops in the swamps, have left a pleasing impression.
We had still a distant view behind us of two or three blue mountains in
Vermont and New York. About nine o’clock in the forenoon we reached St.
John’s, an old frontier post three hundred and six miles from Boston and
twenty-four from Montreal. We now discovered that we were in a foreign
country, in a station-house of another nation. This building was a
barn-like structure, looking as if it were the work of the villagers
combined, like a log-house in a new settlement. My attention was caught
by the double advertisements in French and English fastened to its
posts, by the formality of the English, and the covert or open reference
to their queen and the British lion. No gentlemanly conductor appeared,
none whom you would know to be the conductor by his dress and demeanor;
but erelong we began to see here and there a solid, red-faced,
burly-looking Englishman, a little pursy perhaps, who made us ashamed of
ourselves and our thin and nervous countrymen,—a grandfatherly
personage, at home in his great-coat, who looked as if he might be a
stage proprietor, certainly a railroad director, and knew, or had a
right to know, when the cars did start. Then there were two or three
pale-faced, black-eyed, loquacious Canadian French gentlemen there,
shrugging their shoulders; pitted as if they had all had the small-pox.
In the mean while some soldiers, red-coats, belonging to the barracks
near by, were turned out to be drilled. At every important point in our
route the soldiers showed themselves ready for us; though they were
evidently rather raw recruits here, they manœuvred far better than our
soldiers; yet, as usual, I heard some Yankees talk as if they were no
great shakes, and they had seen the Acton Blues manœuvre as well. The
officers spoke sharply to them, and appeared to be doing their part
thoroughly. I heard one suddenly coming to the rear, exclaim, “Michael
Donouy, take his name!” though I could not see what the latter did or
omitted to do. It was whispered that Michael Donouy would have to suffer
for that. I heard some of our party discussing the possibility of their
driving these troops off the field with their umbrellas. I thought that
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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