Alexander (Brig); Burns, Walter Noble, 1872-1932 -- Voyages and travels; Whalers (Persons) -- United States -- Biography; Whaling
Turtle bay is a beautiful little land-locked harbor on an uninhabited
coast. There was no village or any human habitation on its shores. A
desolate, treeless country, seamed by gullies and scantily covered with
sun-dried grass, rolled away to a chain of high mountains which forms
the backbone of the peninsula of Lower California. These mountains were
perhaps thirty miles from the coast; they were gray and apparently barren
of trees or any sort of herbage, and looked to be ridges of naked granite.
The desert character of the landscape was a surprise, as we were almost
within the tropics.
We spent three weeks of hard work in Turtle bay. Sea watches were
abolished and all hands were called on deck at dawn and kept busy until
sundown. The experienced sailors were employed as sail makers; squatting
all day on the quarter-deck, sewing on canvas with a palm and needle. Old
sails were sent down from the spars and patched and repaired. If they were
too far gone, new sails were bent in their stead. The green hands had the
hard work. They broke out the hold and restowed every piece of cargo,
arranging it so that the vessel rode on a perfectly even keel. Yards and
masts were slushed, the rigging was tarred, and the ship was painted
inside and out.
The waters of the harbor were alive with Spanish mackerel, albacore,
rock bass, bonitos, and other kinds of fish. The mackerel appeared in
great schools that rippled the water as if a strong breeze were blowing.
These fish attracted great numbers of gray pelicans, which had the most
wonderful mode of flight I have ever seen in any bird. For hours at a
time, with perfectly motionless pinions, they skimmed the surface of the
bay like living aeroplanes; one wondered wherein lay their motor power
and how they managed to keep going. When they spied a school of mackerel,
they rose straight into the air with a great flapping of wings, then
turned their heads downward, folded their wings close to their bodies,
and dropped like a stone. Their great beaks cut the water, they went
under with a terrific splash, and immediately emerged with a fish in the
net-like membrane beneath their lower mandible.
[Illustration: When Whaling Is An Easy Job]
Every Sunday, a boat's crew went fishing. We fished with hand lines
weighted with lead and having three or four hooks, baited at first with
bacon and later with pieces of fresh fish. I never had such fine fishing.
The fish bit as fast as we could throw in our lines, and we were kept busy
hauling them out of the water. We would fill a whale boat almost to the
gunwales in a few hours. With the return of the first fishing expedition,
the sailors had dreams of a feast, but they were disappointed. The fish
went to the captain's table or were salted away in barrels for the cabin's
future use. The sailors, however, enjoyed the fun. Many of them kept lines
constantly over the brig's sides, catching skates, soles, and little
sharks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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