Beyond the Ythan are the Forvie sands—a region of hummocks under which
a whole parish is buried. The destruction of the parish took place
several centuries ago, when a succession of north-easterly gales,
continued for many days, whipped up the loose sand of the coast-dunes
and blew it onward in clouds till the whole parish, including several
valuable farms, was entirely submerged. The scanty ruins of the old
church of Forvie is the only trace left of this sand-smothered hamlet.
Not far from the site of the Forvie church is a beautiful semi-lunar
bay called Hackley Bay, where for the first time since Aberdeen
was left behind, rocks appear, hornblende, slate, and gneiss. At
Collieston, a village consisting of a medley of irregularly located
cottages scrambling up the cliff sides, a thriving industry used to
be practised, the making of Collieston “speldings.” These were small
whitings, split, salted and dried on the rocks. Thirty years ago they
were considered something of a delicacy and were disposed of in great
quantities; now they have lost favour and are seldom to be had. At the
north end of the village is St Catherine’s Dub, a deep pool between
rocks, on which one of the ships of the Spanish Armada was wrecked in
1588. Two of the St Catherine’s cannon very much corroded have been
brought up from the sea-floor. One of them is still to be seen at
Haddo House, the seat of the Earl of Aberdeen.
Northward we come upon a region of steep grassy braes, consisting
of soft, loamy clay, 20 to 40 feet deep, and covered with luxuriant
grasses in summer and ablaze with golden cowslips in the spring
months. Along the coast are several villages which once populous with
busy and hardy fishermen are now all but tenantless. Such are Slains
and Whinnyfold crushed out of activity by the rise of the trawling
industry. The next place of note is Cruden Bay Hotel built by the Great
North of Scotland Railway Company, and intended to minister specially
to the devotees of golf, for which the coast links are here eminently
suitable. The fine granite building facing the sea is a conspicuous
landmark. Just north of the Hotel is the thriving little town of Port
Errol, through which runs the Cruden burn—a stream where sea-trout are
plentifully caught at certain seasons. The next prominent object is
Slains castle—the family seat of the Earls of Errol. It stands high
and windy, presenting a bold front to the North Sea breezes. All its
windows on the sea-face are duplicate, a necessary precaution in view
of the fierceness of the easterly gales. Very few plants grow in this
exposed locality, and these only in the hollow and sheltered ground
behind the castle, where some stunted trees and a few garden flowers
struggle along in a precarious existence. As we proceed, the rocky
coast rises higher and bolder and presents variable forms of great
beauty. Beetling crags enclose circular bays with perpendicular walls
on which the kittiwake, the guillemot, the jackdaw and the starling
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