breed by the thousand. The rock of Dunbuy, a huge mass of granite,
surrounded by the sea, and forming a grand rugged arch, is a summer
haunt of sea-birds and rock-pigeons.
[Illustration: Sand Hills at Cruden Bay]
After this, we reach the picturesque and much visited Bullers of
Buchan—a wide semi-circular sea cauldron, the sides of which are
perpendicular cliffs. The pool has no entry except from the seaward
side, and it is only in calm weather that a boat is safe to pass
through the low, open archway in the cliff. In rough weather, the waves
rush through the narrow archway with terrific force, sending clouds
of spray far beyond the height of the cliffs. Under proper conditions
the scene is one of the grandest in Aberdeenshire, and is a fitting
contrast to the sublimely impressive scenes at the source of the Dee,
right at the other end of the county. Beyond the Bullers, the coast
consists of high granite rocks, behind which are windswept moors. Near
Boddam is Sterling Hill quarry, the source of the red-hued Peterhead
granite. Here too is Buchan Ness, the most easterly point on the
Scottish coast, and a fitting place for a prominent lighthouse. The
lantern of the circular tower (erected in 1827) stands 130 feet above
high-water mark and flashes a white light once every five seconds. The
light is visible at a distance of 16 nautical miles.
[Illustration: “The Pot,” Bullers o’ Buchan]
At Peterhead, which is a prosperous fishing centre and the eastern
terminus of the bifurcate Buchan line of railway, is a great convict
prison, occupying an extensive range of buildings on the south side of
the Peterhead bay. The convicts are employed in building a harbour of
refuge, which is being erected under the superintendence of the
Admiralty at a cost of a million of money. The coast onwards to the
Ugie mouth is still rocky, but from the river to Rattray Head, the
rocks give place to sand-dunes similar in character to those further
south. Alongside of the dunes is a raised sea beach. They form the
links of St Fergus. Rattray Head is a rather low reef of rock running
far out to sea and highly suitable as a lighthouse station. In the
course of twelve years, the reef was responsible for 24 shipwrecks.
The lighthouse erected in 1895 is 120 feet high and the light gives
three flashes in quick succession every 30 seconds. It is visible 18
miles out to sea. Beyond this point is a region of bleak and desolate
sands. Not a tree nor a shrub is to be seen. The inland parts are
under cultivation, but the general aspect of the country is dismal and
dreary, and the very hedgerows far from the sea-board lean landwards
as if cowering from the scourges of the north wind’s whip. The country
is undulatory without any conspicuous hill. Beyond Rattray Head is
the Loch of Strathbeg already referred to. The tradition goes that
the same gale as blighted Forvie silted up this loch and contracted
its connection with the sea. On the left safely sheltered from the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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