Abigail Adams and Her TimesRichards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
History
Abigail Adams and Her Times
Richards, Laura Elizabeth Howe
Adams, Abigail, 1744-1818
We do not know much about the diet of Puritan children. Parson Smith was
a good farmer, killed his own pork and beef, planted apple trees, made
cider, etc. We may suppose that Abigail had plenty of good fish and
flesh, with a "sallet" now and then, and corn, squash, and pumpkins at
her desire. "Pompions," the latter were often called, while "squash"
were variously known as squantersquash, askutasquash, isquoukersquash,
all Indian variants of the one name which we clip into a monosyllable.
Wheat did not grow well in the Colonies; oaten and rye meal was chiefly
used in combination with the universal corn. They had hasty pudding,
boiled in a bag, or fried: "sukquttahhash," and jonne-cake, or journey
cake, which we have changed by the insertion of an _h_ till it appears
as if "Johnny" had either invented or owned it. Parched corn (our
pop-corn), a favorite food of the Indians, was also highly appreciated
by the Colonists. They were amazed at first sight of it: Governor
Winthrop explains carefully how, on being parched, the corn turns
entirely inside out, and is white and floury within. Sometimes they made
it into "No-cake," which is, we are told, "Indian corn, parched in the
hot ashes, the ashes being sifted from it; it is afterwards beaten to
powder and put into a long leatherne bag, trussed like a knapsacke, out
of which they take thrice three spoonfuls a day." This was considered
wonderfully sustaining food; it was mixed, before eating, with snow in
winter, with water in summer.
The pumpkins were made into "pyes," cakes, bread, sauce.
We have pumpkins at morning and pumpkins at noon,
If it were not for pumpkins we should be undone.
Potatoes were brought over from England as early as 1636, but were not
grown till some time later. People were still afraid of them: some
thought that "if a man eat them every day he could not live beyond seven
years." Some again fancied the balls were the edible portion, and "did
not much desire them." Nor were the recipes for cooking them specially
inviting. "The Accomplisht Cook" much in use about the year 1700 says
that potatoes must be "boiled and blanched; seasoned with nutmeg and
cinnamon and pepper; mixed with eringo roots, dates, lemon, and whole
mace; covered with butter, sugar, and grape verjuice, made with pastry;
then iced with rosewater and sugar, and yclept a 'Secret Pye.'"[4]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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