Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
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Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
I must tell here an experience of mine with another newsboy. I tell it
because it gives so good an example of that uncivil kindness of the
American, which is perhaps their most bewildering character to one newly
landed. It was immediately after I had left the emigrant train; and I am
told I looked like a man at death’s door, so much had this long journey
shaken me. I sat at the end of a car, and the catch being broken, and
myself feverish and sick, I had to hold the door open with my foot for
the sake of air. In this attitude my leg debarred the newsboy from his
box of merchandise. I made haste to let him pass when I observed that he
was coming; but I was busy with a book, and so once or twice he came upon
me unawares. On these occasions he most rudely struck my foot aside; and
though I myself apologised, as if to show him the way, he answered me
never a word. I chafed furiously, and I fear the next time it would have
come to words. But suddenly I felt a touch upon my shoulder, and a large
juicy pear was put into my hand. It was the newsboy, who had observed
that I was looking ill, and so made me this present out of a tender
heart. For the rest of the journey I was petted like a sick child; he
lent me newspapers, thus depriving himself of his legitimate profit on
their sale, and came repeatedly to sit by me and cheer me up.
THE PLAINS OF NEBRASKA
It had thundered on the Friday night, but the sun rose on Saturday
without a cloud. We were at sea—there is no other adequate expression—on
the plains of Nebraska. I made my observatory on the top of a
fruit-waggon, and sat by the hour upon that perch to spy about me, and to
spy in vain for something new. It was a world almost without a feature;
an empty sky, an empty earth; front and back, the line of railway
stretched from horizon to horizon, like a cue across a billiard-board; on
either hand, the green plain ran till it touched the skirts of heaven.
Along the track innumerable wild sunflowers, no bigger than a
crown-piece, bloomed in a continuous flower-bed; grazing beasts were seen
upon the prairie at all degrees of distance and diminution; and now and
again we might perceive a few dots beside the railroad which grew more
and more distinct as we drew nearer till they turned into wooden cabins,
and then dwindled and dwindled in our wake until they melted into their
surroundings, and we were once more alone upon the billiard-board. The
train toiled over this infinity like a snail; and being the one thing
moving, it was wonderful what huge proportions it began to assume in our
regard. It seemed miles in length, and either end of it within but a
step of the horizon. Even my own body or my own head seemed a great
thing in that emptiness. I note the feeling the more readily as it is
the contrary of what I have read of in the experience of others. Day and
night, above the roar of the train, our ears were kept busy with the
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