Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays — John Shaqi
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
The rest were all American born, but they came from almost every quarter
of that Continent. All the States of the North had sent out a fugitive
to cross the plains with me. From Virginia, from Pennsylvania, from New
York, from far western Iowa and Kansas, from Maine that borders on the
Canadas, and from the Canadas themselves—some one or two were fleeing in
quest of a better land and better wages. The talk in the train, like the
talk I heard on the steamer, ran upon hard times, short commons, and hope
that moves ever westward. I thought of my shipful from Great Britain
with a feeling of despair. They had come 3000 miles, and yet not far
enough. Hard times bowed them out of the Clyde, and stood to welcome
them at Sandy Hook. Where were they to go? Pennsylvania, Maine, Iowa,
Kansas? These were not places for immigration, but for emigration, it
appeared; not one of them, but I knew a man who had lifted up his heel
and left it for an ungrateful country. And it was still westward that
they ran. Hunger, you would have thought, came out of the east like the
sun, and the evening was made of edible gold. And, meantime, in the car
in front of me, were there not half a hundred emigrants from the opposite
quarter? Hungry Europe and hungry China, each pouring from their gates
in search of provender, had here come face to face. The two waves had
met; east and west had alike failed; the whole round world had been
prospected and condemned; there was no El Dorado anywhere; and till one
could emigrate to the moon, it seemed as well to stay patiently at home.
Nor was there wanting another sign, at once more picturesque and more
disheartening; for, as we continued to steam westward toward the land of
gold, we were continually passing other emigrant trains upon the journey
east; and these were as crowded as our own. Had all these return
voyagers made a fortune in the mines? Were they all bound for Paris, and
to be in Rome by Easter? It would seem not, for, whenever we met them,
the passengers ran on the platform and cried to us through the windows,
in a kind of wailing chorus, to “come back.” On the plains of Nebraska,
in the mountains of Wyoming, it was still the same cry, and dismal to my
heart, “Come back!” That was what we heard by the way “about the good
country we were going to.” And at that very hour the Sand-lot of San
Francisco was crowded with the unemployed, and the echo from the other
side of Market Street was repeating the rant of demagogues.
If, in truth, it were only for the sake of wages that men emigrate, how
many thousands would regret the bargain! But wages, indeed, are only one
consideration out of many; for we are a race of gipsies, and love change
and travel for themselves.
DESPISED RACES
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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