Trekking with Oom Tuys was a thoroughly delightful adventure. He had
planned the trip into Swaziland so that at night we made camp at some
Boer farm, and everywhere he was received with open arms. Each night
there was a little jollification in which Tuys was the center of
interest. He always pushed me forward, and the simple Boers made much
of me, all of them knowing my father and having the highest regard for
him. Although we traveled fast there was little hardship. It was after
the rains and the whole veldt was a bright green, with the little
thorn trees in bloom.
We found the Vaal River fordable and the going was easy. Whenever we
were unable to reach a farm-house for meals, we fared well on our own
biltong and rusks. The biltong, so much eaten in the Transvaal, is
dried beef which is usually cut into strips and chunks and eaten
without cooking. Rusks are the biscuits all Boers make, and we ate
well, having enough of both.
Shortly before reaching the Swaziland border we were met by several
fine looking Swazi warriors. I immediately noted their superiority to
the kaffirs I had known. They were about six feet tall, perfectly
proportioned, and carried themselves with a swinging dignity quite
unusual among the Mapors and other natives.
Oom Tuys introduced me to them and they met me as man to man, giving
me the same salute they had accorded my uncle. They told Tuys that
their king was waiting for him and that he had planned a celebration
in our honor.
"You hear that, Mzaan Bakoor?" Tuys asked. "We are going to be royal
guests and you will see the real Swaziland. Watch me and do as I do in
all things, and you shall have much to tell when we get back to
Rietvlei."
As we came up the wide trail to the border of Swaziland, I saw several
hundred warriors at the top of the hill. As soon as we came close to
them they began to wave their knob-kerries and shields. Down the slope
came the deep bass of their voices as they chanted a welcome, the
sound being suddenly cut off short as they brought their feet down in
the heavy stamp they use when dancing. They were our escort--all
picked men of the household impi--and their leader was a noted warrior
who was an old friend of Tuys.
After a short halt for this officer to deliver a brief address of
welcome, Tuys ordered our party to proceed. I noted that he treated
the officer with scant courtesy, and he explained this by saying,
"Here I am a king; he is lucky if I even look at him!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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