A little later we dropped into the Valley of Heaven. This is really
the most delightful valley in Swaziland. It is well watered, and
thousands of the natives have their kraals there. Swaziland is a
broken country, alternating between veldt of from two to five, and
even six thousand feet, and there are small rivers everywhere, flowing
from west to east. Each of these rivers has cut out its own valley,
but the Valley of Heaven is the most fertile and beautiful of all.
Trees, sometimes in clumps but more often singly, are found along the
banks of the rivers and each kraal is practically surrounded by big
and little ones.
Our progress down the Valley of Heaven was practically a parade. At
each kraal or village, a village being a collection of kraals, we
would be greeted by hundreds of warriors and children. The women would
usually remain in the background, but were quite in evidence. Young as
I was, I could not help noting that they were the finest looking
savages I had ever seen. These women have perfectly proportioned
bodies and stand erect, with their heads thrown back. They are the
women of a proud nation, and they show it. I particularly noticed
their splendid shoulders, these and their erect carriage being due to
carrying all burdens on their heads.
At each village the local chief would offer us tswala, or kaffir beer,
and we were lucky to be important enough to be able to refuse to
drink. If we had taken all that was offered, we would have been
drowned long before the end of the first day in the Valley of Heaven.
The fact that our escort consisted of picked warriors from the royal
troops and that Oom Tuys was known to be the intimate of their king
made it permissible for us to refuse to associate with the little
chiefs along the line of march.
Camp on the last night before reaching the royal kraal at Zombode was
pitched in the valley, and we saw the sun set over the plateau on
which King Buno made his headquarters. After supper that night Oom
Tuys confided to me a great secret.
"Buno has asked me a thousand times to bring him a rifle," he said,
"but always I have refused. As you know, the Swazis, like other
kaffirs, are not allowed to have guns. Death is the punishment we deal
out to those who sell rifles to these savages. Now Buno has his heart
set on owning a rifle, and the last time I saw him I promised that I
would get him one.
"In the cart I have a Mauser with about five thousand cartridges, and
the outfit is for Buno. You will want to come to Swaziland many times
in the future, so I am going to make Buno your friend for life. I am
going to allow you to present the Mauser to him!
"No one will know how he got it and you will be as big a man in
Swaziland as I am, once you have given the rifle to Buno. Now what do
you think of your Uncle Tuys?"
Naturally, I was very grateful, since I had already begun to feel the
lure of Swaziland and dearly wanted to be a little king there myself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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