American grape training : $b An account of the leading forms now in use of training the American grapesBailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Science
American grape training : $b An account of the leading forms now in use of training the American grapes
Bailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Viticulture -- United States
Fig. 5 illustrates a renewal pruning. This engraving shows the head of a
vine seven years old, and upon which two canes are allowed to remain
after each annual pruning. The portion extending from _b_ to _f_ and _d_
is the base of the bearing cane of 1892. In the winter of 1892-3, this
cane is cut off at _d_, and the new cane, _e_, is left to make the
bearing wood of 1893. Another cane sprung from _f_, but it was too weak
to leave for fruiting. It was, therefore, cut away. The old stub, _b_,
_f_, _d_, will be cut away a year hence, in the winter of 1893-4. In the
meantime, a renewal cane will have grown from the stub _c_, which is
left for that purpose, and the old cane, _b d_, will be cut off just
beyond it, between _c_ and _f_. In this way, the bearing wood is kept
close to the head of the vine. The wound _a_ shows where an old stub
was cut away this winter, 1892-3, while _b_ shows where one was cut off
the previous winter. A scar upon the back of the head, which does not
show in the illustration, marks the spot where a stub was cut away two
years ago, in the winter of 1890-1. This method of pruning can be kept
up almost indefinitely, and if care is exercised in keeping the stubs
short, the head will not enlarge out of proportion to the growth of the
stock or trunk.
[Illustration: 5. RENEWAL PRUNING.]
_Pruning Young Vines._--The time required after planting to get the vine
onto the wires or trellis varies with the strength of the vine when set,
the variety, the soil and cultivation, and the system of training; but,
as a rule, the training begins the second or third year, previous to
which time the vine is pruned, not trained. Two-year-old vines are most
popular for planting, although in the strong varieties, like Concord and
Niagara, well-grown yearling vines are probably as good, if not better.
The strong-growing kinds are commonly set from eight to ten feet apart
in the row, and the rows eight or nine feet apart. Delawares and other
small vines may be set closer, although eight feet is preferable. When
set, the vine is cut back to two or three buds. During the first year,
the young canes are usually allowed to lie upon the ground at will, as
seen in fig. 6. In the fall or winter, all the canes but one are cut
off, and this one is cut back to two or three buds. The vine is,
therefore, no larger at the expiration of a year's growth than it was
when planted; but in the meantime the plant has become thoroughly
established in the soil, and the second year's growth should be strong
enough to form the basis for the permanent trunk or arm. If, however,
the second year's growth is weak, it may be cut back as before, and the
third season's growth used for the trunk. On the other hand, the growth
of the first year is sometimes carried onto the wires to form the
permanent trunk and arms, but it is only with extra strong vines in good
soil that this practice is admissible. From this point, the treatment
of the vine is discussed under training.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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