American grape training : $b An account of the leading forms now in use of training the American grapesBailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Science
American grape training : $b An account of the leading forms now in use of training the American grapes
Bailey, L. H. (Liberty Hyde)
Viticulture -- United States
[Illustration: 6. A NEWLY SET VINEYARD.]
_When to Prune._--Grape vines may be pruned at any time during the
winter. It is the practice among most grape-growers in the north to
prune as time permits from November to late in February, or even early
March. The sap flows very freely from cuts made in spring and early
summer, causing the phenomenon known as "bleeding," or in Europe as
"weeping," and in order to prevent this loss, pruning is stopped six
weeks or more before the time at which the buds usually swell. It is yet
a moot point if this bleeding injures the vine, but it is a safe
practice to prune early. The vine is cut off an inch or two beyond the
last bud which it is desired to leave, in order to avoid injury to the
bud from the drying out of the end of the cane.
The pruning is done with small hand pruning-shears. The canes are often
allowed to remain tied to the wires until the pruning is accomplished,
although it is the practice with most growers who use the Kniffin system
to cut the strings before pruning. The removal of the severed canes is
known as "stripping." In large vineyards, the pruner sometimes leaves
the stripping to boys or other cheap labor. The stripping may be done at
any time after the pruning is performed until spring. It must be done
before the growth starts on the remaining portions of the vine, however,
to avoid injury to the young buds when tearing the vines off the
trellis.
_Summer Pruning._--There is much discussion as to the advisability of
summer pruning. It is essential to the understanding of the question
that the grower bear in mind that this summer pruning is of two
kinds--the removal or "breaking out" of the superfluous shoots, and
heading-in or "stopping" the main canes to keep them within limits. The
superfluous shoots are such as spring from small, weak buds or those
which break from the old arms or trunk of the vine. Shoots which start
from the very base of the old cane are usually weak and should be
removed. Buds in this position are shown at _a a_, in fig. 4. The
secondary or axillary branches, which often start from the base of the
season's shoots, should be removed or broken out. These superfluous
shoots are pulled off from time to time as they appear, or the buds may
be rubbed off before the shoots begin to grow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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