Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
Their route to the mountain from Banff had been by a branch of Healy
Creek to the continental divide and along this high plateau to Simpson
valley; they returned by way of the Spray. This is now the recognised
route to Assiniboine, along which the Park authorities have opened a
good trail. Mr. Wilcox describes it as the easiest, and at the same
time most uninteresting, of several possible routes; and that by way
of Healy Creek and the continental divide as the most varied and
attractive. A good trail is now available up Healy Creek to the
plateau, and no doubt in time it will be extended to Mount
Assiniboine. Another shorter route by the south fork of Healy Creek
has also been partially opened; so that in the course of a year or two
it will be possible to visit the monarch of the southern Canadian
Rockies by any one of several alternative routes.
Although popularly reputed to be unscalable, attempts were made after
that of Bryant and Steele to get to the summit of Mount Assiniboine,
first by two brothers named Walling, and later by Bryant and Wilcox,
but without success although the first record of ten thousand feet was
considerably increased. Finally, however, in 1901, Mr. (now Sir James)
Outram, with two Swiss guides, Häsler and Bohren, reached the highest
peak after six hours' climbing. The story of the climb is modestly
told in Outram's book, the following passages from which will give
some idea at least of the stupendous precipices that had to be
negotiated and the skill and daring demanded in such a climb. On the
way up Outram rested for a time near the summit of one of the spurs of
the main peak. "Here," he says, "for some moments I stood in solemn
awe, perched like a statue in a lofty niche cut in the topmost angle
of a vast, titanic temple, with space in front, on either side, above,
below, the yawning depths lost in the wreathing mists that wrapped the
mountain's base."
After a perilous ascent where nerve, sure-footedness, and quick
judgment were needed every moment, they finally reached the summit of
the mountain. "One at a time--the other two securely anchored--we
crawled with the utmost caution to the actual highest point (an
immense snow cornice) and peeped over the edge of the huge,
overhanging crest, down the sheer wall to a great shining glacier 6000
feet or more below.... Perched high upon our isolated pinnacle, fully
1500 feet above the loftiest peak for many miles around, below us lay
unfolded range after range of brown-grey mountains, patched with snow
and some times glacier hung, intersected by deep chasms or broader
wooded valleys. A dozen lakes were counted, nestling between the
outlying ridges of our peak, which supply the headwaters of three
rivers--the Cross, the Simpson and the Spray."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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