Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
After resting on the summit, it was decided to descend by another
and even more difficult route--one in fact that had hitherto been
thought impossible. Outram had studied it from below, however, and was
confident that it could be negotiated.
"Well roped," he writes, "and moving generally one at a time, we
clambered downward foot by foot, now balancing upon the narrow ledge,
5000 feet of space at our right hand; then scrambling down a broken
wall-end, the rocks so friable that handhold after handhold had to be
abandoned, and often half a dozen tested before a safe one could be
found; now, when the ridge became too jagged or too sheer, making our
cautious way along a tiny ledge or down the face itself, clinging to
the cold buttresses, our fingers tightly clutching the scant
projection of some icy knob, or digging into small interstices between
the rocks; anon, an ice-slope had to be negotiated with laborious
cutting of steps in the hard wall-like surface; and again, cliff after
cliff must be reconnoitred, its slippery upper rim traversed until a
cleft was found and a gymnastic descent effected to the ice-bound
declivity that fell away beneath its base.
"For close upon 2000 feet the utmost skill and care were imperative at
every step; for scarcely half a dozen could be taken in that distance
where an unroped man who slipped would not inevitably have followed
the rejected handholds and débris, that hurtled down in leaps and
bounds to crash in fragments on the rocks and boulders far below."
Beside this daring climb down the steep north arête of Assiniboine may
be placed an even more perilous incident of the descent of Mount Bryce
the following year. Outram had made the ascent with the Swiss guide
Christian Kaufmann, taking eleven hours to reach the summit. With a
long and difficult climb down the mountain in prospect, and a
particularly dangerous cliff to be negotiated, which had been
troublesome enough on the way up and would be much more dangerous now,
they spent very little time on the summit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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