Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
"It was almost dark," says Outram, "when we approached the well
remembered cliff, which had been continually on our minds, and to
reach which before nightfall had been the object of our hasty,
foodless march. But we arrived too late. And now the question arose as
to the wisest course to take. We were on the horns of a dilemma. To go
on meant descending practically in the dark a cliff which we had
deemed so difficult by daylight as almost to be deterred from
undertaking it at all. But on the other hand, a night out 10,000 feet
above the sea, without the smallest vestige of shelter, on the exposed
sky-line of a ridge swept by an arctic wind, with boots and stockings
saturated and certain to freeze (and possibly the feet inside as well)
before the dawn could aid us on our way, and almost destitute of food,
offered a prospect particularly uninviting. I left the decision to
Kaufmann. The risk was practically his alone. For me, descending first
with the good rope in his trusty grasp, there was no danger, even
should I slip or fail to find a hold, except for the short distance
where both would be upon the face at the same time. For him, a slip, a
lost grip or a broken hold might mean destruction. But he voted for
advance, and at any rate I could make a trial and report upon my
personal sensations before his turn arrived. So I turned my face
towards the rock, slipped over the edge, and entered on the fateful
climb.
"It will be long before I lose the recollection of those seventy feet
of cliff. Drawn out for one long hour of concentrated tension were the
successive experiences of hopeless groping in the dark depths for
something to rest a foot upon, of blind search all over the chilled
rocky surface for a knob or tiny crack where the numbed fingers might
find another hold, of agonizing doubt as to their stability when
found, of eerie thrill and sickening sensation when the long-sought
support crumbled beneath the stress and hurtled downward into the
blackness of space, whilst the hollow reverberations of its fall
re-echoed through the silence. Then the strain of waiting on the best,
but very questionable, protuberances for several tense minutes of
motionless suspense, whilst the exigencies of the rope compelled
Christian to climb down fifteen or twenty feet, and I could move
again. At long last came the marvellous relief of feeling solid and
sufficient standing-room once more, followed by the still more trying
period of inactivity, the patient intensity of watching and hauling in
the slack as the rope came slowly and spasmodically down, telling of
Christian's gradual descent, the strained anxiety lest any accident
should happen to my comrade, and, finally, the thankfulness of seeing
his figure looming close above and in a few moments standing by my
side, and we could breathe again."
[Illustration: MOUNT ASSINIBOINE. (_The Matterhorn of the Rockies_)
_Mary M. Vaux, W. S. Vaux, and G. Vaux, Jr._]
[Illustration: EMPEROR FALLS. _R. C. W. Lett_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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