We rode fast, and in a couple of hours came down to the Euphrates again,
and so over the low ground for another hour till we reached a tell by
the river with a village close to it. This village and tell, as well as
the large mound half-an-hour away to the north-west, and the farm near
it, are all called Jerâblus,[26] and probably local tradition is right
in drawing no distinction between the widely separated mounds, the whole
area between them having been, in all likelihood, occupied by the houses
and gardens of the Hittite capital. Until you come to Babylon there is
no site on the Euphrates so imposing as the northern mound of Carchemish
(Fig. 17). It was the acropolis, the strongly fortified dwelling-place
of king and god. At its north-eastern end it rises to a high ridge
enclosed on two sides in a majestic sweep of the river. From the top of
this ridge you may see the middle parts of the strategic line drawn by
the Euphrates from Samosata to Thapsacus, strung with battlefields
whereon the claims of Europe and Asia were fought out; while to the west
stretch the rich plains that gave wealth to Carchemish, to Europus, and
to Hierapolis. They are now coming back into cultivation as the
merchants of Aleppo acquire and till them, or enter into an agricultural
partnership with their Arab proprietors, and if the Baghdâd railway is
brought this way, as was confidently expected, the returns from them
will be doubled or trebled in value. The northern mound is covered with
the ruins of the Roman and Byzantine city, columns and moulded bases,
foundations of walls set round paved courtyards, and the line of a
colonnaded street running across the ruin field from the high ridge to a
breach that indicates the place of a gate in the southern face of the
enclosing wall. A couple of carved Hittite slabs, uncovered during
Henderson’s excavations and left exposed at the mercy of the weather,
bear witness to the antiquity of the site. It has long been desolate,
but there is no mistaking the greatness of the city that was protected
by that splendid mound.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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