To come to matters less controvertible, the modern Raḳḳah consists of
two villages, of which the westernmost has recently been erected by a
Circassian colony upon high broken ground that certainly indicates the
existence of an older settlement. Beyond it to the east there is a large
semi-circular enclosure, the straight side turned towards the Euphrates
and lying at a distance of about a mile from that river. The walls are
built of sun-dried brick alternating with bands of burnt brick, and set
at regular intervals with round bastions. There are clear traces of a
moat or ditch and of a second, less important, wall beyond it. The Arab
village lies in the south-west corner of this enclosure, near the centre
are the ruins of a mosque with a round minaret, on the east side the
remains of a large building, probably a palace, and at the south-east
corner part of a gate called the Baghdâd gate. Still further east there
is yet another ruin field. Towards the middle of it rises a square
minaret standing in a rectangular space which has been enclosed by walls
of sun-dried brick, no doubt a mosque (Fig. 35). The minaret is of
brick, but it rests upon a square base formed of large blocks of
marble. The brickwork is broken by six horizontal notched rings, the
uppermost surmounting a wide band of ornamental brick. The notches in
the brick were obviously intended to contain some other material,
possibly wood, which has now perished. There are numerous fragments of
columns in the neighbourhood of the minaret. The only other buildings
are, north of the minaret, a small domed ziyârah, which local tradition
would have to be the tomb of Yaḥyâ el Barmakî, who, as well as his more
famous son Ja’far, was vizir to Hârûn er Rashîd, and not far from the
Baghdâd gate a similar shrine, known as the Ziyârah of Uweis el Ḳaranî.
Uweis fell in A.D. 657 in one of the engagements fought on the Euphrates
between ’Alî and Mu’âwiyah, but his tomb is of no great interest except
in so far as it is composed of older materials. Over the doorway is an
inscription which states that “this fortress and shrine were repaired by
Sultan Suleimân, son of Selîm Khân,” who reigned from 1526-1574.[46] It
is obvious that the stone must have been brought from elsewhere, since
the inscription cannot refer to the insignificant structure on which it
is placed. In the adjoining graveyard there are many fragments of
columns, presumably taken from the mosque, and some much battered
capitals, one of them worked with acanthus leaves. I saw, too, a small
marble double column of the type so common in the early Christian
churches of Asia Minor.
It is tempting to suppose that in the eastern ruin field we have the
site of the oldest city, Nicephorium-Callinicum-Raḳḳah, that the columns
were derived from Hellenistic or Byzantine buildings and re-used in a
mosque of which nothing now remains but the square minaret.[47] I think
it not
[Illustration: FIG. 39.--RAḲḲAH, CAPITALS OF ENGAGED COLUMNS, MOSQUE.]
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