An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
"I see that you are good people," said he, in a faint whisper
accompanied by a deep bow. "I cannot give, as I should like, my official
approval to your journey forward, but you can go if you wish. I cannot
say more. Eight of you can proceed to the sacred Mansarowar Lake. The
others will remain here."
Before giving his final decision, he said that he would prefer to have
another consultation with his officers.
We granted this readily.
The Tarjum then presented the doctor with a roll of Tibetan cloth.
I had bathed in the morning, and my Turkish towel was spread outside the
tent to dry. The Tarjum, who showed great interest in all our things,
took a particular fancy to its knotty fabric. He sent for his child to
see this wonderful material, and when he arrived the towel was placed on
the youth's back as if it were a shawl. I at once offered it to him as a
present if he would accept it. There were no bounds to his delight, and
our relations, somewhat strained a few minutes earlier, became now of
the friendliest character. We invited the party inside our tent, and
they examined everything with curiosity, asking endless questions. They
were now quite pleasant, and even amusing. Tibetans have a craving for
alcohol. They soon asked if I had any to give them; there was nothing
they would like more. As I never carry intoxicants, I could not offer
whiskey, wine, or beer; but, not wishing to disappoint them, I produced
a bottle of methylated spirit[3] (which I used as fuel in my
hypsometrical[4] apparatus). This they readily drank, apparently liking
its throat-burning-qualities. They even asked for more. The Tarjum
complained of an ailment from which he had suffered for some time. The
doctor was able to give him a suitable remedy. All officers received
small presents. Then they departed.
In the afternoon a messenger came from the Barca Tarjum. He had good
news for us. The Tarjum wished us to understand that, "as we had been so
kind to him and his followers, he regarded us as his personal friends.
As we were so anxious to visit the Mansarowar Lake and the great Kelas
Mount, and had already experienced many difficulties and great expense
in coming so far, he agreed that eight of our party should proceed to
these sacred places. It was impossible for him to give an official
consent, but he repeated again that we could go if we wished."
This news naturally delighted me. Once at Kelas, I felt sure I could
easily go further.
On the same evening a traitor in our camp sneaked from under the tent in
which my men were sleeping and paid a visit to the Tarjum. There is no
doubt that he told him I was not the doctor's brother nor a Hindoo
pilgrim. He disclosed that I was a sahib, and that I was on my way to
Lhassa. From what I heard afterward, it seemed that the Tarjum did not
quite believe his informant; but, fresh doubts arising in his mind, he
sent a message in the night, entreating us to return the way we had
come.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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