An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
We had rugs placed outside our principal tent. The doctor and I sat on
one, asking the Tarjum to sit on the one facing us. His followers
squatted around him. It is a well-known fact that in Tibet, if you are a
"somebody," or if you wish people to recognize your importance, you must
have an umbrella spread over your head. Fortunately the ever-prudent
doctor had two, and these were duly spread over our respective heads.
The Tarjum himself was shaded under a parasol of colossal dimensions,
held in position by his secretary.
In spite of the extravagant terms of friendship which fell from the
Tarjum's lips, I was convinced, by studying the man's face, that his
words were insincere, and that it would be unsafe to trust him. He
never looked us straight in the face. His eyes were fixed on the ground
all the time, and he spoke in an unpleasantly affected manner. I did not
like the man from the very first, and, friend or no friend, I kept my
loaded rifle on my lap.
After long, heavy speeches, clumsy compliments, and tender inquiries on
the state of health of all relatives they could possibly think of, after
repeated blowing of the nose and loud coughing, which always came on
when we asked whether they had yet decided what we should be allowed to
do, at last, when my patience was nearly exhausted, our negotiations of
the previous day were reopened. We argued for hours. We asked to be
allowed to go on. They were still uncertain whether they would let us or
not. To simplify matters, and hasten their decision before other
reinforcements arrived, the doctor applied for permission to let only
eight of us proceed to Mansarowar. He (the doctor) himself would remain
at Gyanema with the rest of the party, as a proof of good faith. Even
this offer they rejected, not directly, but with hypocritical excuses
and delays. They thought we could not find our way, and that if we did
we should find it rough and the climate too severe; that brigands might
attack us, and so on. All this was tiresome. The Tibetans were even
getting unpleasant. I decided to bring matters to a crisis.
Still holding the rifle cocked at safety on my lap, I turned the muzzle
of it toward the Tarjum, and purposely let my hand slide down to the
trigger. He became uncomfortable. His face showed signs of
apprehension.
His eyes, until now fixed on the ground, became first unsteady, and then
settled fixedly, with a look of distress, on the muzzle of my rifle. He
tried to dodge the aim, right or left, by moving his head. I made the
weapon follow his movements. The Tarjum's servants fully shared their
master's fear. Without doubt the poor fellow was in agony; his tone of
voice, a moment before loud and insulting, now became very humble. With
much meekness he expressed himself ready to please us in every way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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