Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Balkan)
The costume of the Scutarine men is distinctly quaint and curious. A
short dark red jacket, the front and sleeves of which are so completely
braided with narrow black braid as to almost hide the foundation, and
edged with dozens of oblong brass buttons; a pair of wide, dark blue
baggy breeches reaching to the knee; a round flat fez with a huge blue
silk tassel that falls about the shoulders; a bright, striped silk sash;
their legs in white cotton stockings and feet in patent leather
dress-shoes. Such is the dress of the average Christian one meets in
Skodra.
The attire of the women is even more extraordinary. They veil, just as
do the Mohammedan women, and only uncover their faces when they go to
church. For the most part they are beautiful when young, with clear,
delicate complexions, handsome features, and dancing black eyes; but
after seventeen appear to soon lose their beauty and become prematurely
wrinkled and old. The outdoor dress is generally made of the same dark
red cloth as the men’s jackets, so completely embroidered as to appear
black. Indeed no Scutarine, either man or woman, goes out in a dress
unless it is covered with embroidery. In every street you will see a
dozen men squatting cross-legged in a little dark shop, busily plying
the needle upon the narrow black braid, and applying tiny pieces of
green cloth among the braid as additional ornament. Often the braiding
is a marvel of needlework and design, and some of the outdoor costumes
of the women, though exceedingly ugly, are ornamented in such a manner
as to amaze the Western eye.
Female outdoor attire is, of course, of the divided skirt order,
trousers of thick braided cloth so clumsy that the wearer can only walk
with difficulty, a long cape, richly embroidered on the shoulders and
reaching to the hips, with a square kind of sailor collar that is raised
and pinned to the crown of the head. From the bridge of the nose to the
knee falls the white veil, like the Moslem women, while from the sash
are pinned gaily coloured silk handkerchiefs, which, appearing below the
cape, lend additional colour to the most unwieldy and ugly of all the
dresses of the East. The wearer cannot walk, but can only waddle with
difficulty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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