The manufacture of chamois leather from the flesh splits of sheepskins
comprises the largest and most typical branch of the oil tannages. The
sheep pelts are split in the limed state, and the fleshes are given
another sharp liming which may last up to a fortnight. They are next
"frized," _i.e._ scraped over the beam with a sharp two-handled knife,
to remove roughness and loose fat. The goods are next thoroughly washed
in running water and drenched. A paddle drench is often preferred, and
if not used the handling should be frequent. Paddling drenching reduces
the time required from about 16 hours to about 6 hours. An hour or more
in a hydraulic press removes superfluous liquor and some more grease.
The fleshes are separated, cooled and then stocked for 30 minutes to
equalize the moisture in them. After removing from the stocks they are
sprinkled on both sides with cod oil and thrown back into the stocks for
a few hours. They are then dried cold for a day or two. The stocks used
are similar to those once popular for softening dried hides during
soaking, and consist of two heavy hammers which fall alternately upon
the goods which are contained in a curved box below. The result is a
mechanical kneading action. The fleshes are again sprinkled with cod
oil, restocked for a few hours and dried again, this time at 100° F.
They are then repeatedly sprinkled, stocked and dried, the last
operation being conducted always at an increasing temperature until
finally the final "heater" is even up to 160° F. As the operation
proceeds it is advantageous to hang the splits also nearer one another,
and in the final "heater" they are quite close. The next stage is to
pack the goods quickly into suitable boxes and allow them to "heat,"
_i.e._ to oxidize further. This is a rather critical stage in the
process, and to prevent overheating ("burns") it is often necessary to
open out and repack into another box, with possibly some little
intermediate cooling. They are turned over thus repeatedly until the
oxidation is complete, and then spread out to cool.
The fleshes are now a dark brown colour, and are next treated to remove
excess of oxidized oil products. The goods are dipped through water at
110° F. and then subjected to hydraulic pressure. The grease and water
which exude are allowed to separate by settling, and the thick yellow
oil so obtained, known as "degras," forms a valuable material for
leather dressing, as it more readily emulsifies with water than many
oils, and impart this quality to other greases mixed with it. A further
quantity of a similar oil is obtained by paddling the goods with a weak
soda solution. The liquor obtained is treated with sulphuric acid to
neutralize the alkali, and the grease recovered is known as "sod oil."
The fleshes are now well washed with hot water (140° F.), fat liquored
with cod oil and soft soap, machine sammed, either by a wringer or a
centrifuge, and then dried out.
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