Much chamois leather is also made in France by closely similar methods.
The skins are usually oiled on tables and folded up before stocking.
Other marine oils (seal, whale, etc.) replace cod oil. Generally
speaking the oxidation is more moderate, and the grease from the
hydraulic press (_moellon_) is mixed with other fish oils to form
commercial degras. An inferior quality of degras is obtained by
subsequent treatment with soda.
The crust chamois obtained as above has only to be thoroughly staked to
soften, "grounded" and "fluffed" to raise the nap, and then trimmed, and
the ordinary wash-leather is obtained.
If intended for glove leathers superior skins are selected. These are
fluffed carefully upon emery wheels, using first a coarse surface and
eventually a fine surface so that a fine velvet effect is attained. The
skins are next bleached.
In the "sun bleach" or "grass bleach" the goods are soaked in a 1-1/2
per cent. soft soap solution and exposed to sunlight after being wrung.
They are bleached in about 3 days in summer, but nearly a fortnight may
be necessary in winter.
In the permanganate bleach, which is less tedious, the skins are first
degreased by soaking in a warm 3/4 per cent. solution of soda crystals
and then drumming for 30 minutes in water at 95° F. They are then
paddled in a 1/8 per cent. solution of commercial permanganate for an
hour at the same temperature, rinsed through water, and the brown
manganese dioxide is then removed by paddling or drumming the goods in a
3 per cent. solution of sodium bisulphite to which hydrochloric acid is
added as required. The goods are well washed in warm water, and are then
"tucked," _i.e._ placed in a vat of boiling water containing a little
soft soap, just for a few seconds. The goods shrink and curl up, and
they are then dried out at 120°-140° F. to fix the tuck. They are then
staked, fluffed, and dyed.
In dyeing with coal tar colours the alizarin colours may be used after
mordanting with chrome alum. Direct dyes, natural dyestuffs and pigment
dyes are also used. The goods are struck out after dyeing, lightly fat
liquored with commercial egg yolk, dried out at 110° to 120° F., staked
and fluffed on the face side.
Buff leather is a similar leather made from hides. They are limed mellow
for a fortnight, unhaired, fleshed, and then limed again for another
week in sharp limes. The grain is then split off, and the goods rinsed
and scudded, slightly delimed and hung up to dry. They are then treated
in much the same way as fleshes for chamois, but lime is often added to
the cod oil used in stocking.
Buck leather is a similar product obtained from deerskins, but much mock
buck is made from cheaper raw material.
REFERENCES.
Bennett, "Manufacture of Leather," pp. 247-250 and 376-379.
Procter, "Principles of Leather Manufacture," p. 378.
SECTION IV.--FORMALDEHYDE TANNAGE
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account