Bennett, "Manufacture of Leather," pp. 251-312.
Bennett, "Principles of Leather Stuffing," _Leather Trades Review_,
1911, 186.
SECTION V.--SOLE LEATHER
Leather for the soles of boots and shoes is a matter of essential
interest to all, and forms one of the best appreciated applications of
animal proteids to useful purposes. Methods for its manufacture are as
numerous as the factories producing it, hence all that can be done is to
describe broadly the general method which is typical of our time, to
classify the many varieties into types, and to indicate the recent
changes and present tendencies.
Sole leather is mainly manufactured from butt pelt, and the great aim is
to produce a firm, thick, waterproof and smooth grained leather which
will bend without cracking. It must have a light tan colour to be
saleable, and contain as much weight as possible to be profitable.
The modern mixed tannage of "sole butts" or "scoured bends" generally
utilizes ox-hides of the Scotch and English markets, though salted
Continentals and South Americans are also employed. After the usual
soaking a short and sharp liming is given. The special aim in liming
sole hides is to obtain the maximum plumping effect with the minimum
loss of hide substance. Both these achievements are necessary to obtain
good weight. The limes should be kept as clean as possible, which is
best obtained by putting clean hides into work. This reduces bacterial
activity and loss of hide substance. The "shortness" of the process is
attained by the use of sodium sulphide (from 2 to 16 ozs. per hide of
sulphide crystals), by which depilation may be accomplished easily in
about nine days. The amount of sulphide should be increased somewhat in
the short-hair season and in cold weather. Some factories take up to
about 12 days using less sulphide, whilst others will lime in about a
week by using the larger quantities. The amount of lime used varies
enormously, and is invariably in great excess of the actual
requirements. "Probably 2-3 per cent. on the green weight of the hides
is all that can be really utilized, the remainder being wasted."[5] This
amounts to about 2-1/2 lbs. lime per hide, but in practice it is more
frequent to find 7, 8, 9 or even 10 lbs. per hide being used. The excess
is innocuous, owing to the limited solubility of lime. Some excess is
desirable, to replace in the liquor the lime adsorbed by the goods in
plumping, to assist bacterial activity, and also because in
sharp lime liquors the undissolved portions do not remain so long in
suspension. The use of sulphide and other alkalies does not "make it
possible" to reduce the amount of lime used, it merely renders the
excess more superfluous. The use of sulphide not only shortens the
process, but also sharpens it, on account of the caustic soda produced
by hydrolysis. Usually for sole leather, however, it hardly sharpens it
sufficiently, and it is very common to add also caustic soda (or
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