The actual tanning of sole butts lasts three to four months, and just
prior to the war the tannage consisted often of about one-third myrabs,
one-third valonia, and one-third extract. The myrabs and valonia were
leached together, and the extract added to the best leach to make layer
liquors of the required strength. Some mimosa bark was generally used
also, and now it is extensively employed to replace the valonia. The
most widely preferred extract is chestnut, but quebracho, myrabs extract
and mixtures have also a prominent place, and mimosa bark extract an
increasing importance. It is recognized that this tannage is if anything
too mellow, and that if only a smooth grain and plump butt can be
ensured in the first weeks of tanning, it is much better for sole
leather to employ the most astringent tans possible and the sharpest
liquors (_i.e._ liquors with a small relative proportion of soluble
non-tannin matters). Hence there is the tendency in sole-leather tanning
to employ fresh clear liquors for the butts and use up the more mellow
liquors on the "offal" (shoulders and bellies).
Four types of sole butt tannage will now be described, all of which
illustrate the methods employed in a modern mixed tannage.
=1.= The first type consists in a four-months tannage, in which the
liquors are worked down the yard.
The butts pass first through the suspenders (20°-40° Bkr.) in about a
week, and are rocked in the first liquors. They next enter the handlers
(40°-55°) rounds of eight pits, six floaters and two dusters. Myrabs, or
a mixture with algarobilla is used as dusting material. The goods remain
in this set for two weeks, and should then be struck through. The
suspender handlers (55°-65°) are next entered, in which they remain up
to three weeks in suspension, being shifted forward on alternate days.
The goods now enter the layers, of which four are given: first 70° for
one week; second 75° for two weeks; third 80° for three weeks; and
fourth 90° for a month. The goods thus take sixteen weeks to tan, of
which ten weeks (62-1/2 per cent.) are in layers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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