The system of working the liquors is expensive, and is only possible if
the butt liquors can be spent out by the offal. The best or fourth
layer, 90°, is made from the best leach liquor, 65°, and extract
(chestnut with some oakwood or mimosa bark). After use it becomes the
second layer, 75°. The third layer, 80°, is also made from fresh leach
liquor and extract (chestnut with some myrabs or mixed extract). After
being used thus it is used for the first layer, 70°. The used first and
second layers are mixed together and used partly to form the belly
layers, and partly to make a sharp liquor for the handlers (55°-40°) by
diluting with 40° leach liquor and adding quebracho extract. The old
handler liquor is run to the suspenders (40°-20°), and finally used for
colouring off the offal in drum or paddle 18°. The suspender handlers
(65°-55°) are made from fresh leach liquor and chestnut extract. They
are afterwards used to make shoulder layers. The course of the liquors
is shown in the diagram below.
It will be seen that fresh leach liquor and fresh material are used to
each set except the suspenders, which must have some mellowness to
ensure plumping and smooth grain. Layer liquors are used twice only, and
then (when only five weeks old) pass to the handlers. These are further
sharpened by fresh leach liquor and fresh extract and dry materials.
The forward handlers are fresh liquors with fresh extract. This tannage
is fairly typical of high-class sole leather, in which the liquors are
worked down the yard, but worked towards the offal, which thus receives
liquors with relatively greater proportions of mellow tans and soluble
non-tans.
----------Leach liquor-------------------
| / \ |
| V \ |
| 4th layer, 90° \ |
| | V |
| V 3rd layer, 80° |
| 2nd layer, 75° | |
| \ V |
| \ 1st layer, 70° |
\ \ / |
\ \ / |
\ V V |
\ (mixture)[-->bellies] |
\ / V
V V Suspender handlers-->(65°-55°)(shoulders)
Handlers, 55°-40°
|
V
Suspenders [-->offal]
=2.= The second type consists in a tannage of about four months, in
which the liquors are not worked down the butt yard. In this method also
there is an attempt to save much of the labour in handling, first by
shortening the time in the handlers by one week (as compared with the
above), and second by fusing the two progressive handler sets into two
sets of equal strength, through which the goods pass more slowly and
with less disturbance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account