Alaska -- Antiquities; Eskimos; Eskimos -- Anthropometry; Indians of North America -- Alaska; Indians of North America -- Yukon
The government boat _Jacobs_, on which we shall go down the Tanana,
is a moderate-sized, shallow-bottomed stern-wheeler, and, like all
such boats on these rivers, will push a heavily laden freight barge
before it. There are about a dozen passengers, the boat labor, a trader
or two. All kindly, open. A few women--most of both sexes of the
Scandinavian type. On barge some horses, a cow, pigs, chickens.
Leave after lunch--very good, generous, and pleasant meal in a local
restaurant that would do credit to a large city; only the people are
better, more human. Meals $1, the almost universal price in Alaska.
Some quaint expressions: When anyone has been away, especially to the
States, they say he was "outside." I am an "outsider;" show it "by my
collar." Underdone bacon is "easy." To assent they say "you bet." In
a restaurant, to a decent, cheerful girl: "May I have a little hot
coffee?" "You bet!" Which bright answer is heard so often that one
finishes by being shy to ask.
Dogs, of course, do not pull, but "mush." This is from the Canadian
French "marche." Dogs do not understand "go" or "go on," only "mush."
Extensive flats. Below Nenana these flats, plainly recent alluvial, are
said to extend up to 60 miles to the left (southwestward) and to 20
miles to the right. As one passes nearer they are seen to range from 3
up to about 8 feet above the level of the river at this stage of water.
Cabins and fishing camps along the river, mostly flimsy structures,
with a few tents. Indians in some. The Indians are said by the whites
to be pretty lazy, living from day to day; yet they seem industrious
enough in their own camps and in their own way.
Storage or caches, little houses on stilts. Dog houses in rows. Curious
wheel fish traps, revolving like hay or wheat lifting machines, run
by the current. They scoop out the fish and let them fall into a box,
from which the fisherman collects them twice a day. It is the laziest
fishing that could be devised. The contraption is said to come from
the northwest coast, but has become one of the characteristic parts of
the scenery along the Tanana and the Yukon. An Indian camp--stacks of
cordwood--canoes.
The day is sunny, moderately warm and rather dry--about as a warm,
dry, fall day with us. The river shows bars, with caught driftwood;
also considerable floating wood. There are seagulls, said to destroy
young ducks and geese and water birds' eggs. Shores now wooded, mainly
poplar, not large. Farther back and farther down, spruce.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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